“Will I Still Have To Turn Down Upholstery Cleaning Jobs?”

I’m often asked:

“If I get the right training and have the right products and tools, will I still have to turn down any upholstery cleaning jobs?”

My answer is always . . . . YES, YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST!!

“You must turn down any job where your customer’s expectations exceed what you can deliver in the way of a result”

Think About This:

What really is the most costly event that can happen with a customer?
If you damage an individual piece of furniture through color bleeding, fading, or texture distortion, you will have a tangible cost that you will incur (a claim) and then it’s settled. But that’s not your biggest cost! The fact is that the damage claim is your smallest problem!

What happens if you consistently deliver poor results in the eyes of your customers?
You could have dozens of unhappy customers who will never call you back, and never refer you to others, or more likely will trash your reputation at the hair salon at every opportunity!

Unlike carpet, upholstery has so many variables in its fiber content and design, including consumer neglect, that it is impossible to always remove all stains and soils easily, or at least removing them without causing color or texture damage to the neglected fabric.

The problem is communication.
If your customer understands these limitations up front, they are more likely to accept a less than perfect result, or they have the option of declining your service. Either result is less costly than the alternative which usually happens to cleaners who spend hours attempting to clean something that will never be able to be restored. They lose both the money and at the same time have at minimum an unhappy customer, and more often than not lose the customer for good.

A good pre-inspection and prequalification step is NOT a list of good sounding excuses that is meant to talk the customer into accepting poor results.

On the contrary, if you understand the limitations of a specific fabric, such as the tendency of a rayon chenille to lose its texture from wear or denim to lose color, you can speak to the specific limitations imposed by the fabric and the use your customer has put it through when you explain what level of soil or stain removal that your customer might accept.

The ability to explain these limitations also should allow you to talk to your customer about the care of their furniture before it becomes heavily soiled and stained, and thus allow you to deliver results with which they will be pleased.

Learning to follow a consistent and well thought out pre-inspection and testing protocol on every job you clean will prevent this costly and frustrating problem, and will also enhance your image of professionalism in your customers eyes.

Correcting Browning

In the last Clean Tip, I shared the question of a cleaner who had an article of furniture turn brown after cleaning, and how that problem might be better prevented in the future.

Today I'll share the potential remedies for browning in the unlikely (we are hopeful!) event that you encounter browning yourself.

1. In some cases, rinsing the fabric with an acidic rinse agent, such as Upholstery Rinse or Fabset, will remove the browning. I prefer rinsing with Dye Stabilizer and Rinse, as it is a pure organic acid that contains no surfactant. This distinction is important, as you should leave as little residue as possible when correcting browning to prevent texture problems.
   
   Even if an acidic rinse does not completely solve the problem, it likely will remove detergent residues that contributed to the browning in the first place, and make subsequent removal procedures more effective.
   
   
2. The next treatment to apply is a reducing agent, such as Coffee Stain Remover or a liquid browning treatment that contain sodium bisulfite. Such products are effective at removing the brown discoloration and few contain surfactants either.
   
   
3. If reducing agents do not work, rinse the fabric again, dry it quickly, then use an oxidizing agent, such as Boost All. This type of product should be mixed with an upholstery cleaning detergent or shampoo, then rinsed from the fabric with an acidic rinse (Upholstery Rinse/Fabset), and dried rapidly.
   
   Products such as Stain Zone and Stain Magic may also work, but caution should be used, as these products may weaken cellulose fabrics, such as cotton, linen, and rayon.

All browning causes some degree of destruction to the fabric, so it is always undesirable to allow this to happen. The methods that remove browning also cause a degree of damage, though steps one and two (acid rinses and reducers) cause little noticeable damage. Use oxidizing agents only as a last resort, and as said before, avoid browning at all costs.

I Browned a White Sofa!

Q: Hey Jim:
I recently cleaned a white cotton sofa and had a browning problem!
I preconditioned with a neutral prespray and a neutral shampoo, rinsed with an acid rinse, and then applied a water based protector that is made for upholstery. I also used a "dry tool" to do the cleaning ... why did it brown?

A: You used all the "right stuff".
However, the problem was likely caused by the fact that (#1) you used dual preconditioning steps, (2nd) you added the rinse, (3rd) then you added the water based protector! All this resulted in just too much moisture. Running additional fans, or using only one preconditioning step might have helped.

However, consider this . . .
The key to preventing browning in heavily soiled white natural fiber fabrics starts with pre-qualification: Anything highly soiled that might require extra preconditioning can brown, so the customer needs to be advised of this, as well as reaching an understanding that the necessary additional steps to correct browning will result in a higher price or charged for as an additional service if browning does occur, (rather than have you fix it for free later) as well as resulting in an unhappy customer.

You also should consider cleaning heavily soiled white natural fiber fabrics in plant.
In a controlled environment, you can precondition, rinse, dry, then start over again rather than try to "do it all at once", which contributes to over wetting and the risk of browning.

Likewise, you can wait for the fabric to completely dry and then apply the protector, when you work in a controlled, in plant environment.

I will present the correction process for a fabric browned in this fashion in our next Clean Tip.

Mystery Upholstery Color Change

Hey Jim:

Q:
I cleaned a tan sofa and it turned pink after it dried! I rinsed it with an acid rinse and thought it was always safe. What happened?

A:
What you experienced is known as an "indicator dye change". This rare occurrence is caused when the fabric's dye reacts with a cleaning solution in the same way that the dye used in litmus (pH) paper turns various colors depending on the pH of the solution that it is exposed to.

When a fabric that has such a dye used in it is rinsed with an acid rinse, it may turn pink or red just as pH paper would when dipped into an acidic solution.

Here Is A Possible Solution:
Ammonia as you purchase it in the grocery store is the best solution for this problem. Avoid "sudsy ammonia" or cleaners that simply have ammonia as an ingredient, as such products contain detergent that may leave a sticky residue.

Unfortunately even "straight ammonia" can be of variable strength, so to be on the safe side, dilute the ammonia 50/50 with water before using it. If the discoloration remains, re-apply it at full strength.

NOTE:
If the fabric contains dyes that might bleed, even this brief exposure of ammonia could potentially cause color bleeding! Unfortunately, if you are already in the position of correcting this problem, you have little choice but to assume this risk. That said, ammonia rapidly self neutralizes and is very unlikely to cause color loss when used in this fashion.

The New Problem Fabric Challenges For Upholstery Cleaning Professionals!

For decades, the fabrics perceived to be problem fabrics by cleaners, and by those who train them, have been in these four categories:

1. Bleeders, usually fabrics woven on the jacquard loom


2. Raw Cotton, still sometimes called "Haitian Cotton"


3. Velvet, especially those made from natural fibers


4. Nondurable finishes, mostly Chintz and Polished Cotton

Today, those categories have changed. Following is the 21st Century list, in the order of challenges and problems now occurring!

1. Fabrics That Won't Come Clean! Cleaners are facing more issues with abused natural fibers that they cannot restore without damaging them.


2. Natural Whites. The term Haitian Cotton is massively outdated, and even raw cotton isn't correct, as rayon and linen fabrics have the same issues of browning and water stains as cotton does.


3. Textures. Velvet is still "out there", but the new problem fabrics are natural fiber chenille, and even synthetic microfibers. The chenille's can have permanent distortion, and the microfibers have issues in poor manufacturing processes that can cause you big problems if you don't know what they are.


4. Non Colorfast Fabrics. The "old fashioned" floral jacquard weaves still exist, but most color problems today are being encountered in poorly made prints and denim fabrics that easily fade.

If you are still seeing the upholstery cleaning world through "20th Century Eyes", and training your employees the same way, you can expect to get caught by surprise when one of these challenges becomes an unexpected problem for you.

The Number One Upholstery Cleaning Problem Today is…Texture Distortion!

For several years, cleaners have focused their efforts in both testing and cleaning to find ways to prevent color bleeding and browning, (which are still both concerns for fine fabric specialists), but have long been resolved by cleaners who understand the chemistry of cleaning.

In a recent discussion that I had with leading furniture manufacturers, the individuals with whom I spoke did not complain about cleaners damaging dyes or causing browning, they instead spoke about the incredible amount of texture damage done during the cleaning process!

Today’s fine fabric specialist must recognize that delicate textures are not just velvet, which was for years the fabric most concentrated on in cleaning classes, but now also include such varied products as chenille and microfibers. While the difference between a rayon chenille and a polyester microfiber may see to be worlds apart, both can be easily (and perhaps irreparably) damaged by a careless cleaner.

Use this quick checklist to help to prevent damaging the furniture your customer has entrusted you to care for:

1. PreInspect and PreQualify your work: Many of these fabrics have already been damaged by abuse from your customer, their children and/or their pets. Make sure you discuss pre-existing problems before you clean.
   
   Qualify your work: Many of these fabrics have already been damaged by abuse from your customer, their children and/or their pets. Make sure you discuss pre-existing problems before you clean.


2. Precondition using a soft brush, and only brush in the direction of the lay of the tap, if any.


3. Extract using the “Upholstery Pro” upholstery cleaning tool. There are plenty of good “cleaning tools”, but there is no tool I have ever used that creates as little distortion during the cleaning process as this tool. The “Upholstery Pro” cleans and extracts as well as any tool you can use, but most importantly will not leave jet streaks, and creates only an occasional easy to remove “slight edge distortion” at the edges of the tool. Post grooming of fabric is far easier and less time consuming when you use the Upholstery Pro.


4. Use as little cleaning or rinsing agent as possible to prevent stiffness from residues. Never use carpet cleaning detergent in your “rinse”, and even many acid rinses may leave sticky residues. Sapphire Scientific Upholstery Rinse is unique for its very low level of surfactant content, and is my preferred rinsing agent for all soft textured fabrics.


5. Groom the fabric. Grooming techniques for velvet, chenille, and microfibers are all somewhat different, but all should be groomed immediately after extraction, then again after drying with fans.

Follow these steps and you’ll have better results and happier customers who will appreciate your efforts as a fine fabric specialist who cares.

FAQs - Tile, Grout & Stone

Q --
Jim,

A customer of mine just asked me to clean some grout for her on her marble floor where her dogs had their way while she was away. I checked my supplies and found that I only have a little Viper Venom.

Did I hear once that Viper Venom is just a glorified stripper?? I have stripper and was wondering if I could use that as well.

Anticipating your response,
Dan

A --
Dan,

I would be careful identifying Viper Venom with stripper, as floor stripper as a pH range that can make it very damaging to many surfaces in the home that Viper Venom does not. However, regardless of that, I wouldn't even want you to get Viper Venom on marble.

Viper Venom (and stripper, and most degreasers) have agents in them that help them attack minerals in the water that interfere with their performance. That also means those agents attack minerals called calcium carbonate, which is the mineral that makes what we call marble.

The grout used in marble is unsanded, and the grout lines should be very narrow. You can't use a grout brush on them, nor should you as marble also scratches easily.

For your customer's sake, and obviously for yours, I'd recommend you wait and get some Stone Perfect, which is the best product I've ever used for cleaning marble and other natural stone.

Dan, I also need to caution you that what sometimes looks like "dirty marble" is really scratched marble. Those small scratches are not always evident as scratches, but when you are done cleaning the marble may look just as dirty.

That said, the Stone Perfect, applied with a clean (not a bit of grit in it) soft brush will clean the grout lines beautifully. Dan, we have some new sales help for you also! Stone Care Solutions from Bridgepoint is has created two short sales videos to help you sell your stone cleaning and polishing services. You can get this DVD for FREE free with the purchase of any set of the Stone Care pads. 5,7,17, or 20”.

Click here to see a short video for some super information you will like!

Jim

Triexta Update

I received a call today from a well informed and customer service oriented carpet cleaner I know, and the story he related spoke to both technical and marketing issues we must all be aware of.

This gentleman sends a newsletter to all of his customers, including the carpet retailers who refer him. In it, he made a point of warning his customers that the new Triexta fiber that is being so heavily promoted today may not live up to the expectations the retailers are creating.

It seems that at least one of the retailers he sent this newsletter to became very upset at his sharing this information, and confronted him about it when he met with her. While his initial reaction was irritation at her support for what he (and likely you) consider to be an inferior fiber, his “business head” thought about it a bit longer.

In our discussion, we both had to agree that Triexta does solve two problems that nylon (the cleaner’s favorite fiber) does not:

1. The Triexta fiber is inherently resistant to red dyes. Unlike Stain Resistant Nylon, which loses its stain resistance over time from abrasive soil and most cleaning processes, Triexta does not.


2. Triexta fibers also resist color loss from urine stains. Since most homes in the US today have more than one cat and/or dog, this issue is powerful, and should not be overlooked.

There remains little doubt that Triexta will continue to have the “oil loving” characteristics of its better known cousin, Polyester, but that’s why professional cleaning is needed, isnt’ it?

The cleaner is going to visit his referring stores and discuss his more balanced view of Triexta, which he should. He mentioned how annoyed he gets when retailers make comments about carpet cleaning that don’t really address the “whole story”, and he recognized that perhaps he did the same.

The lesson for you (and for me)? There are several:

1. Triexta is here to stay. Go to most carpet stores, and its “everywhere”. Its surely better than Olefin, and likely better than Polyester. The fact that we don’t like it as much as Nylon is more our issue than it is our customers, after all.


2. We might not like “oil loving fibers”, but our customers aren’t as worried about Oily soils as they are bleach and dye stains.


3. Let’s keep our dialog with those stores that gladly refer us, and make sure that while we need to serve our customer’s needs, we also need to make sure we understand the whole story.
   
   Having an open minded attitude that listens to the views and needs of all parties will keep your business not just the one your customers wish to use, but that retailers will gladly recommend!

For more information on Triexta, see my article at
http://tinyurl.com/cleantip6

Is it Wicking or is it Sticking?

What do you do when you get called about a spot that has been discovered by your customer after you have cleaned their carpet?

Before you show up with an arsenal of products, you need (and your customer needs) an answer to these three questions:

1. Did the stain remain after cleaning?
2. Did the spot come back when it dried?
3. Did the spot show up over time?

The reason that these questions are so important is that they speak to three different types of problems.

1. "Did the stain remain after cleaning?"
   If you've done everything you could to clean the carpet and a stain remains, you might need to use reducing or oxidizing agents with some of your advanced skills to remove this stain. And, in some cases, there are stains that cannot be removed regardless of your skills and available stain removal chemistry arsenal.


2. "Did the spot come back when it dried?"
   If spots disappear during cleaning, but reappear after the carpet dries, the problem is probably wicking. This needs to be treated with an absorbent powder or sprayed with an anti wicking agent


3. "Did the spot show up over time?"
   This is more likely a sticky residue than a wicking problem. When adhesive residues (such as from tape) or clear sugary drinks spills, the soil that was attracted to the sticky residue comes up easily, leading the cleaner to believe the spot is gone. If it comes back, you need to follow more extensive spotting procedures to remove the sticky residue that in the case of a spill is likely deep within the carpet yarns, and will require extensive flushing to remove.

Each of these three different circumstances requires cleaning, spotting, and stain removal skills to correct. But those products and skills are not of much use, and can sometimes even work against you, if you don't know the difference between the three.

Bedbugs & Lice on Upholstery and Bedding

The most common insect control issues associated with upholstery and bedding include: BEDBUGS, FLEAS AND LICE.

Each of these parasitic insects create discomfort for your customers, and may be difficult to eliminate.

Here are some of the serious questions that are heard frequently, along with a link to an article I have published in the eCleanAdvisor.com where you can find some additional links to an excellent resource you might wish to share with your customers!

Q - How can you tell if the residence or building is infested?
Q - What should you know about insecticides and other methods for treating bed bugs?
Q - What might you do when returning from a visit to an infested residence?
Q - Do bed bugs cause harm or spread pathogens?

For answers to these questions and MORE, please visit:
http://tinyurl.com/25bxjq2

FAQs - Rust Colored Marks on Chenille

Q - Hey Lisa:

Here in the Orange County area I periodically come up against a problem with furniture covered using a "Chenille" fabric and my ability to clean it.

When the couch has "DOWN FEATHERS" filling in the cushions and, (depending on the age of the couch), during pre-inspection I see what appears to be orange or seemingly rust marks on the outside of the fabric.

I have been told by one of the local high end upholstery shops that it is the breaking down of the fire retardant (sprayed on the feathers), fabric protector and long term moisture in the air.

To date I explain but most normally walk away from those couches – Have you seen this before and do you have any suggestions on how to remove this discoloration?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Lisa - Re: Chenille question

If I started out by sharing my opinion of chenille RUGS with you (which are sold at Pottery Barn, and shrink to about half their size when washed...) - we would have a long dissertation here. :)

As a fabric on upholstered furnishings, this type of tricky textiles needs advice from someone in that field. So I'm copying this to Jim Pemberton who is the best I know. (Jim and I are team teaching Aug. 6-7 in Vegas with a new program combining hands-on rug and fine fabric topics.)

JIM - any advice on this topic? Or explanation? Is this stenciling?

Please copy me... as I'd like to learn about it as well.

Lisa
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
A – from Jim Pemberton

Lisa Wagner asked that I comment on your questions on rayon chenille upholstery and the discoloration that you're seeing.

I'd like to have a digital picture to look at, but I think based on your report to Lisa, that I can make these conclusions:

1 - I doubt that its flame retardant. Flame retardant, when exposed to excessive moisture, usually leaves a white stain, not a brown one.

2 - I doubt that its fabric protector. The only discoloration that I've seen from some over applications of fabric protector has been yellow, not rusty-brown.

3 - Whatever the cause, I also doubt that its from within the cushion, as you did mention that the discoloration is at the tips of the yarns.

This is what I have seen in rayon upholstery, as well as draperies, that can cause this type of discoloration.

1 - Oxidized spills, especially those that are sugary or oily. These can start as clear and turn brown over time. I do NOT think this is your problem, as the discoloration should look like a spill.

2 - Reaction to cleaning agent residues. This isn't like the browning you see on unprocessed cotton, but the result is the same. You haven't indicated that you cleaned it, though, so I'm assuming its not that.

3 - Sizing: Water marks on rayon turn rusty brown when sizing is present. I doubt its that only because its usually seen as a ring, and I'm not convinced there would be a great deal of sizing used on chenille. However, based on the moisture you say might be present in the environment, it is a possibility.

4 - Oxidation from exposure to light and pollutants. This is what I believe to be the cause. You can see this sort of problem on draperies that are exposed to direct sunlight, humidity, and fumes.

Correcting the problem is problematic, as rayon is sensitive to both moisture and bleaches, as well as the fact that repeated clean and rinse processing will distort the hand of the fabric.

If you wish to try, I would use a neutral detergent and an mild, non chlorine bleach additive that contains sodium percarbonate. You can apply the solution in a mist, GENTLY agitate with a soft horsehair brush in one direction; allow about 20 minutes of dwell time, then extract with an acidic rinse agent, followed by fast drying.

I would hesitate to do this on location, especially as you mentioned the humid environment. Take this to a location where you can control the humidity and closely monitor your results.

Before you go to this trouble, you might consider testing a small area with fresh 3% hydrogen peroxide. If that doesn't work, the above formula likely will not.

Resist trying stronger concentrations of hydrogen peroxide, as these might weaken the fabric.

Let me know what comes of any tests or remediation processes that you attempt.

Best regards,
Jim Pemberton

FAQs - Cotton Denim-Like Fabric

Q – Hi Jim,

A customer has a sectional comprised of a light colored denim fabric. There are numerous baby formula spots on multiple panels.

I mentioned to the customer that there is a good likelihood that the spots will not be removable, but they would like me to try. I will burn test it, but, assuming it is cotton, I was thinking of trying either cool protein spotter (Zoop, or possibly Avenge or Perky spotter), letting it dwell for a few minutes, rinsing with Clean Rinse in my rinse solution, then force-drying with a blower.

What are your thoughts on this? I would appreciate any advice you would be willing to give.

----------------------------------------------------

A – From Jim . . .

Much of the outcome will depend on whether the fabric had a protector on it, how long the spots have been on the material, and if they tried anything first.

What color is "light color"? Dark denim, like jeans, loses color easily, and spotting often causes color loss. To be on the safe side, I'd follow this procedure:

• Precondition the entire fabric with Avenge Heavy Duty Prespray. It has a high enough pH to break protein bonds in most cases, especially if the furniture was protected.
• DO NOT apply it only in spots.
• Allow ten minutes of dwell time, and then extract with your Clean Rinse. You will take out some, if not all, of the spots. If any do remain, you can try the Zoop Enzyme Spotter, as it is very mild and unlikely to cause color loss. Also, if you apply it immediately after you rinse the fabric, the presence of moisture will prevent water marks.
• You can accelerate the Zoop by lightly steaming it with a steamer or iron, but hold the steam back and do not let the iron touch the fabric.
• Rinse again with the Clean Rinse and see what you have.

If any spots remain, you should get some sort of release. Once you are clear of liability, Protein Stain Spotter is one of the best baby formula spotters I've ever used, but it can pull color from natural fiber fabrics, so apply on a small amount at a time, and rinse it as quickly as possible.

If you have any before and after pictures, please send them!

Jim

FAQs - Acrylic/Modacrylic Fibers

Q - Hey Jim,
I got a couple of Acrylic/Modacrylic area rugs in yesterday. White back ground with colored polka dots.
Should I have any concerns?

A - from Jim P
Good question!

In my limited experience with acrylic rugs, I find some to be cheaply made, so do a thorough inspection to look for any weakness or preexisting damage. The PRC (China will always be "Red China" to me) makes cheap stuff, including rugs. I have had some non colorfast acrylic rugs that were manufactured in the PRC, so test the colors carefully, even though we usually think of thermoplastic synthetics as being colorfast.

You'll also find that if there is any wear or distortion, that you cannot readily fix it with grooming or steaming like you often can with wool or even silk.

Send me some pictures, front and back!
Jim

Q - comment from reader

Thanks Jim,

The rugs do not appear to be anything too special. Typical tufted rugs, just wondering about the modacrylic fiber characteristics.

Thanks again

A - from Jim P
OK, that being said, let me know a little more, if you can.
Tufted rugs can have their challenges, especially if cheaply made. They likely have very low value.
Jim

Q – comment from reader

Jim,

Here is what I observe . . .

As I said, the rugs are from China. There are two identical rugs. One for some reason is darker/dirtier looking. After cleaning, pet spots are almost gone, 99%, but the darker rug still looks darker. Neither was super soiled, but they just don't look any better except in the pet spotted areas.

On another note, I had a badly abused wool rug with numerous dye looking colored spots or medicine spots that didn't clean. I went back over with Stain Zone (I know, I know!) lightly. All responded beyond my expectations with no (visible) bad results.

Interesting how our industry has matured over the years to come up with so many specialty products to so easily fix things that were next to impossible except for the real spotting geniuses.

A - from Jim P

Hi again, and thanks for the updates.

You'll see I've now copied your emails to my mentor in "all things area rug related", Lisa Wagner. I think she'll have some insights regarding your Chinese acrylic rugs, though my guess is that she doesn't see them as having a very high value, and therefore that any further restoration likely exceeds the value of the rug.

But she never ceases to surprise me with her creativity and standards of excellence, so we'll see what she says.

Likewise using Stain Zone (stabilized 9% Hydrogen Peroxide Lisa, if you weren't sure) on wool.

Not a great idea, but if you can do it safely and not take on excessive liability, why not? My father was using peroxide back in the 60's, but since from the 60's to the late 80's most carpets were dark, most urine stains were bleach stains. In the last 20 years carpets are light, and the early stages of urine contamination are visible, and can be treated before dye damage occurs.

Jim

A-2 – comment from guest expert
From: Lisa Wagner
Subject: Re: Acrylic/Modacrylic

Jim is right that acrylic is really the bottom of the food chain... it's like trying to clean a styrofoam cup to make it all uniformly "white" again - the question "why bother?" comes up from all directions.

It is a very weak fiber - not as horrible as fake silk (rayon) but fake wool (acrylic) still has those concerns about too much agitation, and weakening from just about every corrective stain remover you could use.

With hydrogen peroxide on wool... yes you can improve some stains with that. Most rug plants do use this on certain stubborn stains - within reason, because it will create deterioration of the wool fibers as a result, so these areas will be weaker over time, and begin reflecting light differently, so as the rug ages, those areas you worked on will become more apparent. So it is a short term "win" with a long term consequence.

But - if the rug is not high value (i.e. an investment piece), from India or China, then this might not matter much. Actually, if it has urine stains on it, the rug even if valuable is no longer valuable... so it may be a moot point.

In these scenarios, I write on the invoice - "significant pet urine damage has permanently devalued the rug - we will attempt to lessen this damage with some corrective measures but will not be able to reverse what has been done by the pets."

Something along those lines. She needs to know her rug is less valuable - so if any work you do seems incomplete, or a different version of a problem, that she cannot come back and say YOU devalued her rug. You can damage a damaged rug, that's what I say.

So, protect yourself if you do any more work. I usually try one area, let them tell me if they want more done - give them the cost - and let them know that bleach/peroxide/stripping agents/whatever WILL damage the fibers. I make it their educated call on what they want done.

Hope that helps... please do send the acrylic photos. I hope your clients don't think they bought a wool rug, -- that would be sad.

Lisa

In-Plant Upholstery Cleaning

I recently taught an upholstery cleaning class where the class was given a wingback chair made of a rayon/polyester blend fabric that was heavily soiled. The upper inside back had a brown hair oil stain, and the cushions and arms were likewise heavily soiled and stained.

The class was able to improve the appearance of the chair dramatically, but not perfectly. And the process took an hour to complete. One student said: “How can you make money spending this much time cleaning one chair?” The answer is: You probably can’t, especially if some of the soiling and staining were still present, regardless of the fact that the overall improvement was dramatic.

I pondered this, and thought about some of the upholstery cleaning experts I’ve known in my life, and there is one thing that “the best of the best” of them had in common:

They cleaned heavily soiled natural fiber fabrics “in-plant”.

By taking such furniture from the customer’s home, they did incur higher labor costs of pick up and delivery, but they also then had the furniture in a controlled environment where there was a greater range of cleaning agent options, plus the ability to dry the furniture quickly with the use of both dryers and dehumidifiers. Mostly, there was also the ability to “touch up” the furniture after drying, do some minor scratch repair to wooden legs and trim, as well as apply polish the trim, do minor upholstery repair, and apply protector in more controlled setting for more even application and no fumes in the home.

With this in mind, I cleaned the chair two more times, and did some minor repair work.

The result is one that someone would likely pay three times as much for as the more limited job that could be done on location.

If you are already considering setting up a small rug cleaning plant, consider adding restorative cleaning of fine fabrics in-plant to your service mix. You may find what was once a frustrating and unprofitable part of your service offering to become one that is rewarding both financially and personally.

FAQs - Dull & Hazy Marble

Question -
Hey Jim,

I just cleaned some white marble, and it looks clean, but the traffic areas look dull and hazy, what do you have to clean that?
---------------------------------
Answer -
Good observation!

Those hazy areas are not likely dirt, but instead scratches where the tracked in gritty soil has damaged the marble. No matter how much cleaning that you do, you can't fix those scratches without polishing the marble.

Depending on the depth of the scratches, you'll either need to use industrial diamonds and a weighted scrubber, or at least the Spinergy pad system. Also, advise your customer that the higher the shine that they require, the more often you'll be back polishing out the scratches.

Simply put:
Marble in an ancient temple in Europe is white, but not reflective (sort of like chalk). That flat finish will not show scratches. If they want the marble to make a mirror type reflection, it can possibly show scratches in days.

FAQs - Water Stains on Carpet

Question: I have a commercial carpet with dark water stains that appeared after drying out a flood loss. Any tips on how to remove them?

---

Answer: Water stains are usually simply wicked soil. If the stains are brown or rust colored, they may also contain cellulose or mineral materials from the water itself or structural materials.

Some water stains may be removed with an acid based spotter, or mild reducing agent, such as would be found in Browning Treatment by Masterblend or Coffee Stain Remover by Bridgepoint. Severe water stains often come out more readily with the use of an oxidizer, however.

I worked on one such stain that was a dark rust color, and had defied every conventional removal process. I then tried a new product of ours, Groom Solutions Peroxicap. This unique product works primarily for use in encapsulation cleaning, but it also has peroxide in its formulation. By applying the product to the stained area and the surrounding carpet as well, then following with agitation with a rotary scrubber and encapsulation pad, every bit of the water stain was removed.

One of the above processes should work for you, depending on the severity of the stain and the equipment and products available to you.

FAQs - Does it Pay to Protect Polyester and Triexta?

There has been some discussion in our industry regarding or not polyester (PET) or triexta (PPT) require protector, and even if protector works on these fibers. While triexta is a new fiber, there is nothing in its make up to make us feel that the application of a fluorochemical protector, such as Scotchgard, Teflon, or Maxim would not help. These products protect against the primary soiling and staining problems that beset both triexta and polyester: Oily soils.

We have been able to conduct long term testing of polyester (PET) here at our training center. The polyester sample carpet was 20 years old, and obviously without any remaining factory protection. After cleaning, 3M Scotchgard (tm) and Bridgepoint Maxim Advanced were applied to opposite ends of the carpet, with the center left untreated.

The carpet was then put down in our repair shop, and rotated every day to make sure that the carpet soiled evenly. The carpet was also vacuumed every other day.

After 30 days, it was obvious that the two protected sides were resisting oily soil and spills, and that the untreated center was soiling more rapidly.

In 60 days, the carpet was thoroughly cleaned. Within another 30 days, the same degree of protection was still evident, as the treated areas continued to resist soil and spills, and the untreated areas did not.

As polyester (PET) becomes a larger percentage of the carpet you clean, you should feel free to apply fluorochemical protector to it. According to industry studies, it should remain on the carpet for about 12 months before it wears off.

FAQs - Acrylic / Cotton Upholstery Fabric

Question -

Subject: Acrylic/cotton upholstery fabric

At least that's what the Interior Designer said the fabric is according to her records on a chair I am to clean. It's red and off white. There is no place to cut a sample to test. -- This designer keeps all records so I trust what she sold her customer.

I'm thinking to treat it as a natural, should I use the shampoo made for problem wool rugs. I typically shampoo and steam/rinse. Otherwise I have foam solvent. There may be a slight chance I have cotton shampoo.

Tips?

Thanks
-----------------------------
Answer:
Subject: Acrylic/cotton upholstery fabric

Acrylic is the only synthetic fiber that I've known to bleed. I'd feel more comfortable with the Mastertech Shampoo than the cotton shampoo, as the red might fade from the reducing agent in the cotton shampoo. Foam Solvent Shampoo would even be safer (acid pH).

Do your rinse with Fabset or All Fiber Rinse with lukewarm water, dry it fast, and you should be fine.

Do a color test of course.

Jim

FAQs - "Triexta" Carpet

Question -
Hey Jim,
Do these new "Triexta" carpets clean better than the regular polyesters? The dealers seem to think it's the new miracle carpet fiber!

Answer -
Glad you asked about this new fiber.

Following my comments is a press release you should read & keep a copy.

But first, just why is this press release of importance to you, the carpet cleaner? Simply this: "Triexta", often marketed under the Mohawk brand name "Smartstrand ™", has and is promoted as a "new and better" carpet fiber. While this product is partly made from sustainable resources, and has been claimed to have superior resiliency than the original "PET" polyester fiber, it is important to note that no claims of superior oil resistance are being made for this product.

You should, of course, work as closely as possible with any manufacturer's directions if asked to clean a carpet while its under warranty, but do not be overly enthusiastic about stain resistance claims made about this product.

It is true that "Triexta" has superior WATER BASED stain resistance, and that even stains that contain dyes may be easier to remove, but there is no evidence that this product is any less oil loving than "PET" (polyester). For that reason, you may need to use preconditioning agents designed to break the oil bonding that occurs with such fibers before you can successfully clean this carpet, or any other oil loving carpet such as “PET” (polyester).

Feedback on your experience with this new fiber and how it has responded to professional cleaning is welcome.

PRESS RELEASE:
A New Carpet Fiber!

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has issued a final rule, effective March 26, 2009, that establishes the subclass name triexta as an alternative to the generic name polyester for a subclass of polyester fibers made from poly(trimethylene terephthalate).

The petitioners who sought this designation stated that PTT fiber, while having the same general chemical composition of polyester, has distinctive features of durability, resilience, softness and ability to stretch with recovery that make it significantly more suitable than conventional polyester for carpet and apparel.

The FTC has concluded that each of the four criteria for creating a new generic fiber subclass have been met:

1. PTT has the same general chemical composition as an established generic fiber category


2. PTT has distinctive properties that make it suitable for uses for which other fibers under the established generic name would not be suited or would be significantly less well suited


3. These properties are important to the general public


4. These properties are the result of a new method of manufacture or PTT’s substantially differentiated physical characteristics.

(Source: Centexbel website, www.centexbel.be)

Question

Hey Jim,

Do these new “Triexta” carpets clean better than the regular polyesters? The dealers seem to think it’s the new miracle carpet fiber!

Answer:

Glad you asked about this new fiber.

Following my comments is a press release you should read & keep a copy.

But first, just why is this press release of importance to you, the carpet cleaner? Simply this: “Triexta”, often marketed under the Mohawk brand name “Smartstrand ™”, has and is promoted as a “new and better” carpet fiber. While this product is partly made from sustainable resources, and has been claimed to have superior resiliency than the original “PET” polyester fiber, it is important to note that no claims of superior oil resistance are being made for this product.

You should, of course, work as closely as possible with any manufacturer’s directions if asked to clean a carpet while its under warranty, but do not be overly enthusiastic about stain resistance claims made about this product.

It is true that “Triexta” has superior WATER BASED stain resistance, and that even stains that contain dyes may be easier to remove, but there is no evidence that this product is any less oil loving than “PET” (polyester). For that reason, you may need to use preconditioning agents designed to break the oil bonding that occurs with such fibers before you can successfully clean this carpet, or any other oil loving carpet such as “PET” (polyester).

Feedback on your experience with this new fiber and how it has responded to professional cleaning is welcome.

PRESS RELEASE:

A New Carpet Fiber!

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has issued a final rule, effective March 26, 2009, that establishes the subclass name triexta as an alternative to the generic name polyester for a subclass of polyester fibers made from poly(trimethylene terephthalate).

The petitioners who sought this designation stated that PTT fiber, while having the same general chemical composition of polyester, has distinctive features of durability, resilience, softness and ability to stretch with recovery that make it significantly more suitable than conventional polyester for carpet and apparel.

The FTC has concluded that each of the four criteria for creating a new generic fiber subclass have been met:

1. PTT has the same general chemical composition as an established generic fiber category

2. PTT has distinctive properties that make it suitable for uses for which other fibers under the established generic name would not be suited or would be significantly less well suited

3. These properties are important to the general public

4. These properties are the result of a new method of manufacture or PTT’s substantially differentiated physical characteristics.

(Source: Centexbel website, www.centexbel.be)

FAQs - Is It Really Possible to Dry Carpet Before Leaving the Job?

Question:
Hey Jim,
Do you have some thoughts on this Dri-Eaz Studebaker AirPath? I heard that the carpet dries when you leave the job.

-------------------------------Answer:
Thanks for your interest in the Dri-Eaz AirPath.

The speed of which the Airpath will dry a carpet varies with the cleaning method used, the carpet fiber type, and the atmospheric conditions in the structure.

More simply put:
Heavily soiled carpets that require extensive preconditioning treatments take longer to dry.

Carpets cleaned with portable machines with weak vacuum and high pressure pumps take longer to dry.

Wool carpet takes longer to dry than do synthetic fiber carpets.

Carpet cleaned in a dwelling without air conditioning when there is high humidity outside will take longer to dry.

Homes where the entire carpet as well as the upholstery is cleaned, will generate a great deal more water vapor during the evaporation process, and will take longer to dry than they might when only a living room, dining room, and a hallway or stairs are cleaned.

Carpets that have protector applied will take longer to dry.

With all of the above factors in mind, our experience has been that nylon carpet cleaned in an environment of controlled humidity (A/C in summer, as an example) with a truck mount system in good operating condition and 300 CFM or more airflow will dry in about 15 minutes in the room that the AirPath is running. If you add any of the above factors into the equation, the drying time can extend to a few hours or more even with the AirPath.

Jim Pemberton-------------------------------Question:
My equipment has a vacuum 16" Hg: 280 CFM with installed SOVC. I always connect
my auto pump out for my recovery tank and also a inline aqua filter to reduce
debris getting inside the recovery tank. My question is: Will the CFM decrease?
Jim, thank you for your response about the performance of Dri-Eaz Studebaker AirPath.-------------------------------Answer:
Your equipment specifications are such that you should be able to have carpet fairly dry if not dry when you leave the job, although you should still bear in mind the variables of "heavy preconditioning wetting", wool absorbency, the extra moisture left behind after protector application, and the environmental conditions.

In line filtration devices are a great convenience, and will help to prevent clogging in your automatic pump out. However, they do restrict airflow; the amount of which varies somewhat with design, but mostly with how often you clean the filter.

Jim