Sub Surface Urine Odor Treatment

With the understanding that the majority of urine residues penetrate through carpet into padding (at least) and through to subfloor (at worst), cleaners and property owners have the challenge of treating a problem that cannot be easily seen.

While the ultimate solution may include removing carpet and cushion, there are times where subsurface treatment can be attempted without disengaging the carpet.

To properly perform subsurface treatments, you must locate the odor source and be confident that the urine contamination is isolated to that area. The use of UV lights and moisture sensors will assist you in this task.

Individuals (whether cleaners or property owners) who are unwilling to use such tools will rarely be successful in subsurface treatment attempts.

For decades, the tool of choice for subsurface treatment has been an injection syringe. Such syringes have larger needles than are used for medical purposes, but still only allow relatively small amounts of odor treatment solutions to be applied. You must aim such needles at a variety of angles and you may only hope that sufficient treatment solution is reaching the affected areas.

More recently, special extraction attachments, such as the Water Claw Spot Lifter, have enable cleaners to flood the area with gallons of deodorizing solution and then extract the excess moisture from carpet and padding. Such a treatment process better assures a sufficient delivery of deodorizer to the source area.

However, just as with the injection syringe, there are concerns that must be addressed:

If you choose to flood a contaminated area over a wood subfloor, especially when on the second floor of a home, or over a furnished basement, you must pull back that portion of the carpet and place plastic under it. Otherwise you might end up flooding through the floor and through the ceiling below.

Such precautions are time consuming, but critical if you choose to use such an "invasive" method of odor treatment.

Surface Treatment of Urine Odors

If you've done a reasonably thorough inspection of most urine odor situations, you'll likely have found that most urine odor contamination problems require more than just a surface spray application or cleaning.

However, once your customer is made aware of the cost involved in either Subsurface Treatments or Total Restoration of urine contamination, some will ask you to "just spray something on the top, because I can't afford to do that."

You must be VERY careful before you give in to this seemingly reasonable request.

If urine contamination has penetrated into carpet backings and cushion, not only will a surface treatment rarely work, more often than not your cleaning will actually make the odor worse! If this happens, your customer will rapidly forget their "reasonable request" and they might actually insist that you now completely treat the carpet at no additional cost, because it "smells worse than ever now!"

This trap reminds me of what happens to cleaners who dry clean furniture because the customer is fearful of the "S" code that insists on dry cleaning. Only when the fabric doesn't clean up well (most often the case) do they THEN want it to be cleaned with water, but of course at no charge.

To avoid this trap, make certain that in your initial inspection that you show your customer the extent of the damage from urine. Remind them that surface treatment and cleaning will likely (not maybe) make the odor worse. Have the will power to refuse to do the job wrong for less money.

Because ultimately you'll be doing the job "right" for free later if you don't!

Finding the Source: The Secret to Urine Decontamination Success

I'm often called or in receipt of emails where I'm asked "Is there a deodorizer that will eliminate urine odor without having to inject into the carpet cushion, flood the carpet, or remove the carpet?" This question is usually followed by this type of statement: "I just want to spray the carpet, and not get involved with all of that. What do you recommend that works?"

My answer, of course, has to be: "Nothing".

The problem with urine odors is not so much their chemical complexity but the relative inaccessibility of the real problem.

Its for that reason that the cleaner who is faced with this issue must carefully inspect the carpet and locate the true source of the odor.

To do this inspection, you need the following tools:

1. Your ears: Ask the customer questions and listen carefully to what they tell you. Has this animal recently been ill, and otherwise has avoided urinating on the carpet? How large was the pet, and how many pets could have been involved? What was the species and gender of the pet? What attempts were made to treat the problem before you were called? (They've always tried something, have no doubt.)

2. Your nose: Where does the odor seem to be the most intense? The customer will not be as sensitive to the problem as will you, because they have acclimated themselves to it.

3. Your eyes: Look for areas that have turned yellow or brown. Urine is sticky, so what looks like a brown drink spill is often urine residues that have attracted soil.

4. UV Light: Use an UV light that is powerful enough to work in the daylight or home lighting. Protect your eyes with amber glasses. Remember that the UV light will reveal other residues and discolorations as well. Urine will usually show light yellow to light green under UV light.

5. Moisture Detector: The use of a moisture detector will help to isolate areas of contamination as well.

Once you locate the source of the odor, the use of appropriate subsurface application and extraction equipment will usually do the rest. Or, in more cases than cleaners would like to accept, the carpet will need to be disengaged so that the cleaner can decontaminate the site directly.

In subsequent blogs, I'll address such steps in more detail.

Urine Contamination Systems Indicator Guide Concept

Over 20 years ago, my father was hired to teach group of interior designers how to clean upholstery.

As he recalls: "I knew I was in trouble the moment I saw them. They were wearing the finest garments, bracelets, and several rings.....and that was just the men!"

These individuals were, of course, people who understood fabric, but not the complexities of cleaning the fabric. Nevertheless, they wanted to have a system to care for the furnishings that they sold, so they needed to be trained.

All of the standard (and complex) methods of testing and cleaning that existed at that time were beyond their grasp (or at least their interest), so Lee had to come up with a simpler system of testing, inspection, and cleaning that made sense to such people.

In one evening, he created the Fine Fabric Care Systems Indicator Guide. This guide has been used for decades since as one of the easiest and most reliable ways to test, identify, then easily and safely clean upholstery.

Last month, he challenged me to do the same thing with pet odor treatment systems.

In the field of pet odor control, cleaners sometimes find the array of products, tools, and potential scenarios for treatment to be very confusing. This problem is much the same as upholstery cleaning used to be before the invention of the system indicator guide for upholstery.

The simplest means of narrowing down and defining the processes need to correct pet odor control begin with identifying the three treatment conditions that most often exist:

1. Surface Treatment. Pet damaged carpets that require only surface treatment have little odor, the event that caused the contamination was recent, and only repeated once or twice, if at all.

2. Sub Surface Treatment: Carpets that require sub surface treatment have odor that is more readily identified, the deposits are weeks or perhaps months old, and the animal has "visited" the area several times.

3. Restorative Treatment: Restorative Treatment is needed when the odor becomes overpowering, the animal has continued to contaminate the carpet over several months or years, and this long term, repeated contact has saturated the carpet, cushion and flooring.

In my next blog, I'll discuss the inspection tools needed to determine which contamination level is present, and what will be necessary to restore the carpet and remove the odor.

Browning Correction with Red Dye Removal Products

I was recently sent a cushion asked to correct a browning problem on a cotton fabric. The browning was not severe, but it was widespread, and did not respond to an acid based browning treatment.

I felt that the next logical step would be to try a mild reducing agent. Before I tried this standard procedure, I thought this might be a good time to try something that I'd heard worked, but had never tried myself: Using a red dye stain remover.

I applied a small amount of Pros Choice Red One to the most severely discolored area, and was pleasantly surprised when the brown disappeared after just a few minutes. After I saw how rapidly and completely the product worked, I applied it to the rest of the fabric, and likewise the brown disappeared everywhere.

After the fabric dried completely, a few areas still were light brown, but one more application took care of that small amount of discoloration.

My conclusions are that this product removed browning more easily and quickly than the products most of us use for cellose browning. Also, consider this:

How many of us carry true cellulose browning removal products on our trucks any longer? But most of us carry red dye removers, such as Red One. This means we can get more use out of less products, which keeps things simpler for our staff, and ourselves.

Tolerance of Odors

For the past few years I've been experimenting with a variety of "detergent free cleaners", such as Masterblend Soap Free and Bridgepoint Prolon. In an effort to see how effectively such detergent free and odor free products would work, I limited my use of boosters other than oxidizing boosters that are likewise odorless.

Just a few weeks ago I went to clean some carpet as a favor for a neighbor, and grabbed some "standard traffic lane cleaner" that contained solvents and detergents and used that instead.

As soon as I began to spray the product, I found the odor so objectionable that I barely could complete the job! This was the same product I had used for several years before that had never bothered me. It then dawned on me:

I had "deadened" my perception of that odor in the same way that your customers become likewise "immune" to the odor of urine in their home!

I'm certain you've entered a customer's home and been "hit in the face" with an overpowering odor of urine that the customer is apparently oblivious to. But have you ever considered that you have customers who are "hit in the face" by the odor of some of your cleaning products that you no longer notice?

I am not suggesting that you toss out everything you own that might offend any single customer. I AM suggesting that you have friends or family members who are not involved in your business be present when you use some of your mainstay products and ask them to tell you honestly how the odor affects them.

If you find that you are using some products that seem to make your "test subjects" uncomfortable, consider looking at unscented cleaning products and some of the new deodorizers such as Hydrocide and Anti Allergen Deodorizer. These products are incredibly effective, and when you work, your sensitive customers will be more comfortable and reassured that what you are using is both safe and effective for use in their homes.

Environmental & Health Concerns

I visited Nova Scotia (Canada) a few weeks ago, and found the approach Canada has toward health and the environment to be a few years ahead of “us” here in the US.

For example, they sort their trash into several categories and insist on using only “organic” pesticides and herbicides on residential lawns. When I questioned my hosts about what it was like when they were forced to make the transition from “the old type” of pesticides to the “organic” ones, they confessed that at first it was a problem. The early “organic products” were not very effective, and there was some public resentment for having to make these changes.

However, over the next few years the products improved and now people can know they are protecting their property while protecting their environment.

How does this story influence our industry?

A Canadian entrepreneur had wanted to develop a product that could work as an effective antimicrobial for restoration and remediation purposes, but without the associated health and safety hazards that some such products might present. When I was first introduced to his product, "Benefect Botanical Disinfectant", I was skeptical. The "Green Revolution" has given us some good cleaning products, but it has also given us some marginal performers.

However, since Canada is ahead of us in this regard, the Benefect is already a "finished product" that has been "through the paces" up north. Of course, a product cannot receive an EPA registration if it doesn't work.

There is nothing "marginal" about Benefect. We've tested the product extensively and have been, quite frankly, impressed rather than just satisfied with the results. Of course, our tests aren't as important as our customers needs and feedback.

I fully expected that some of the restorer's who had more of a "green mentality" would like the product, and a few others would keep a gallon of it around for their customers who might be apprehensive about the "chemicals" the restorer is using in their home or facility.

What I could not have expected were the amount of restorers who have completely switched over to this product. From what I've been told, these people have found that its simpler to use this type of product exclusively, because such a product reassures both their customers and their employees.

If you'd like to know more about "Benefect", visit our website at: www.pembertons.com

Microfiber Upholstery Cleaning

I've been surprised to find out that many cleaners are wary of, or actually refuse to clean microfiber upholstery. It seems this fear arises from the delicate appearance of the material, as well as its tendency to darken and flatten when it becomes wet.

Cleaners should realize that most microfiber upholstery is made from polyester, with a smaller percentage made from nylon. So while this material may look like "suede" or "Nubuck" leather, its actually a fairly easy and safe to clean synthetic product. What gives microfibers their "delicate look" is the fact the the "denier" or thickness of the fibers are finer than silk, and thus give a "natural/delicate" appearance to the material.

To safely and effectively clean microfibers, simply remember that this highly adsorbent (as opposed to absorbent) material will hold high volumes of fluid spills and body oils, and thus needs thorough preconditioning and dwell time before extraction. Hot water extraction can be augmented by towel extraction with the assistance of a hand buffer, such as are used for car detailing.

Care should be taken to not allow hot fittings or the metal parts of cleaning tool orifices to come into direct contact with the material for extended periods of time, and for vacuum adjustment valves to be opened when truck mount cleaning machines are being used.

Finishing of microfibers should be done with a clean, lint free towel.

Microfibers can be confused with "suede" or "nubuck leather", and there is a possibility that rayon microfibers (such as are used in garments) might be used for upholstery cleaning one day. To prevent damaging such materials, it is important that materials that appear to be microfibers be tested before cleaning.

Profitable Upholstery Cleaning

The energy crunch of 2008 has caused many truck mount oriented carpet cleaners to rethink using their truck mount for upholstery cleaning use. When one considers that such equipment uses between 1.5 and 3 gallons of gasoline per hour, it makes sense to reduce one's fuel costs from 6.00 - 18.00 per hour (or more) to 0 by using an electric powered portable machine and the customers electricity.

However, those veterans who remember using such portable equipment in the past are rightly concerned that there might be a higher labor cost or less soil removal that would more than negate the energy savings.

Those fears arise from the fact that the "upholstery cleaning equipment" that was used in the 80's and early 90's was deliberately "underpowered". In those days, low pressure solution pumps were used with tools that had very fine jets. This slow pressure, low flow cleaning was need to prevent overwetting.

Many of these same machines also had very small vacuum motors, as most of the power was diverted to heat exchangers or the technology needed to create a machine that could handle both solvents or water based detergents.

Those days are long gone.

Now, because of the "Dry Tools" now available, such as the Drimaster, HyDry, or Hydrokinetic Upholstery Tools, cleaners are no longer forced to use underpowered equipment. In fact, these "Dry" or "Redirected Flow" tools work best with higher water pressures and water flow.

I have had great success with the Kleenrite Sphere with this type of tool and system of cleaning. The Sphere that I use has a 200 PSI Pump, a Three Stage Vacuum Motor, and a 1750 Watt heater. With it I can achieve performance nearing that of a truck mount, use the Dry Tools that prevent bleeding, browning, and shrinkage, and the low pH preconditioners and rinses that also give maximum performance with minimal risk.

Such equipment and tools together cost less than 2000.00, and rapidly pay for themselves in their energy efficiency, fast productivity, and great results.

Profitable Upholstery Cleaning

There are many ways to make your upholstery cleaning service more profitable: Increasing your price, adding on upholstery protector, time saving techniques, etc.
In this entry, I'd like to discuss and idea that should help you save labor and fuel costs cleaning upholstery.

The past several years has seen an incredible growth in the percentage of cleaners who use truck mounted carpet cleaning machines to clean upholstery. The advent of "dry tools" has helped make upholstery cleaning safer than ever, and the ease of set up and quickness of cleaning that tools afford has made us very comfortable in using our truck mounts in this fashion.

However, there are two inefficiencies inherent in this method that should be addressed: Labor and Fuel Costs.

If you have two people on the job cleaning carpet, one can stay busy pulling hoses, moving furniture, spotting, grooming, etc. However, when furniture is to be cleaned, one man invariably is standing around while another does most of the work. If this is the case in your company, consider using "dual wand upholstery cleaning". A truck mounted machine does not have to be a dual wand machine to be able to handle dual upholstery tools, as such tools require far less water volume and vacuum power per tool.

Simply purchase a "Y" for the vacuum hoses and a "Splitter" for the solution lines, and now you can have both employees cleaning. If there are multiple piece of upholstery, one the lighter furniture can be moved to another area to keep the operators out of each others way. If it is only one piece, such as a sofa, one operator can clean the cushions, and the other the body.

Try this method. It saves time, and since the work is done in half the time with the same gasoline or diesel powered machine, it saves fuel.

In my next blog entry, I'll discuss the use of portable equipment to clean upholstery, and how it can be done more efficiently than in the past.