FAQs - Brown Spots After Cleaning

Hello Jim -

I'm hoping you can assist me with a problem carpet. I've seen your posts on the various Internet bulletin boards and realize you are amongst the most respected professionals within the carpet cleaning industry.

I cleaned a carpet a week ago Friday and was called back because of an issue which caused brown, elongated spotting on the carpet. I've cleaned it twice since then but the marks continue to return after each cleaning but in different areas. In some places on the carpet, the the marks seem to correspond with the end of wand strokes and/or where a pad moved across the carpet. I've attached several pictures so you can see the problem areas.

Here are the particulars:

1. Carpet fiber is Olefin as determined via the burn test and the fibers floated on water without absorbing.
2. Carpet style is cut pile, perhaps Saxony.
3. Carpet had not been cleaned in four years and was extremely soiled. No kids or pets.
4. Cleaning process: pre-vacuumed using a Proteam commercial with beater brush; applied cleaning solution; agitated with machine pad (initial cleaning only); rinsed and extracted with Prochem Peak; post-padded with white cotton pad (most recent cleaning only); groomed. Ceiling fans in all rooms set on high.
5. Cleaning agents used: 1) Traffic Slam prespray boosted with Prochem Oxy Plus & End Zone rinse; 2) Zone Perfect prespray & Prochem All Fiber Rinse; 3) Zone Perfect & End Zone.

On the second cleaning, I used added dry strokes pushing the wand well beyond normal overlapping. I post-padded before grooming during the most recent cleaning. My plan is to next use a Prochem ProCaps machine with an appropriate cleaning solution.

I've never run into this before so any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
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Hello

I am always happy to help someone in need in our industry, and I have an idea of what might help.

1. Do you know the prior cleaning history of the carpet (before the four year interval?)
2. When you clean carpet, do you release the trigger valve on your back stroke, or do you leave the trigger on as you push the wand forward?
3. Do you have available any of the following products? Bridgepoint Encapugard or Pros Choice ARA?

Let me know and I'll give you a step by step process to solve the problem.

Best regards,
Jim Pemberton
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Hello Jim -

Thanks very much for replying.

Cleaning history: I am told by the current home owner that the carpets were cleaned by the previous owner just before she moved into the house about four years ago. She has no idea what cleaning method was used. After the second cleaning resulted in the same issue, I asked if she could get in touch with the previous owners to find out how the carpets were cleaned but she believes they moved out of the area.

Wand strokes: I have the trigger engaged on the upstroke (pushing forward), release it just before completing that stroke, and the back stroke is dry.

ARA/Encapugard: I don't have either on the van - thought I had ARA but it is CSS - but can purchase either (would lean towards ARA) easy enough.

Again, thank you for taking the time to assist. I truly appreciate it.
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Hello

Thank you for your feedback. The answer would be easier if you HAD kept the valve on during your backstroke, as that does render the type of discoloration that is shown in the pictures.

Nevertheless, the problem appears to be wicking, regardless of the cause. Carpets made from olefin fibers have a greater tendency to wick, and the history of an unknown prior cleaning and a long period before professional cleaning reinforce that to me.

I think you've introduced enough chemistry to this carpet. Unless the carpet has become heavily soiled since your last attempt, I'd use End Zone only the next time, with your water pressure set at 250-300 PSI, several vacuum strokes, and then apply the Anti Resoiling Agent.

If you have airmovers of any sort, use them to dry the carpet quickly.

Let me know how this works for you.

Jim Pemberton

FAQs - Get Self Tanner Out of Nylon Carpet

Q - Hey Jim,
What's the best process to get some instant tan, tan lotion off of white nylon carpet?

A
There are several ingredients in self tanning lotions, but the two basic ingredients that will challenge you are oils and pigments.

Break down the oily component with a gelled solvent first. Products such as Bridgepoint Gel Break or Pro's Choice Prosolv Gel will suspend the oils without allowing the pigments to penetrate deeper in the yarns, such as would occur if you use a basic volatile or non volatile solvent.

Next, you should attempt to remove the emulsified oil and suspended pigment with an alkaline spotter, such as Bridgepoint Protein Spotter or Pro's Choice Power Gel.

Follow this step with Hot Water Extraction.

If any stain remains, apply an oxidizing stain remover, such as Bridgepoint Stain Zone or Pro's Choice Stain Magic.

If your customer hasn't tried to do anything first, such as scrubbing the spot with a household spotter, you have a very good chance of removing the stain completely with this process.

- Jim Pemberton

FAQs - Coffee Stain on Wool Rug

Q - Hey Jim,
Can I clean a coffee stain on a wool area rug with Bridgepoint Coffee Stain Remover?

A -
A bit of background is important before answering this question.
The manufacturer's of wool carpets and rugs do not recommend the use of any oxidizing or reducing agents on their products. (Coffee Stain Remover is a mild reducing agent).

That said, there is likely no other way to remove coffee from this rug. Be sure to get a release IN WRITING from the client and advise them that the use of this product is not recommended on wool, but that its your only chance to remove the stain. Once you've gotten permission, mix the product in warm water, apply it, then allow it to work. It does not need to be agitated or blotted, as it is not a spot remover, but a stain remover.

If the stain is removable at all (a 50/50 proposition on wool), it may take hours, so this is best done in plant. Once the stain is gone or lightened, clean the carpet. DO NOT clean the area with very hot water (not a wise practice on area rugs anyway) as the residual reducing agent in Coffee Stain Remover may react with heat and cause color fading.

FAQs - Lingering Odors After Cleaning

(Q) Hey Jim,
I have a clothing store account that I clean on a regular basis. Next door there is a deli that had severe water damage, and the water that intruded into the clothing store contained blood and other liquids from the meat stored at the deli.

We used an enzyme cleaner to break down the blood, and the carpet cleaned well. However there is an odor still detectable in the carpet when the manager puts his nose down into the carpet. There also appears to be some odor coming through the wall.

What products do you have for treating the carpet, as well as something to control the infiltrated odor until the deli can be cleaned and put back into business?

(A)
The following are my recommendations for treatment of the odor problem that has occurred in the clothing store you are maintaining.

First, as I understand the problem, there was water intrusion from a deli located next door, and that the water contained blood and other organic materials that have created a decomposition odor.

Secondly, the drying and cleaning process that you outlined, including the use of enzyme cleaners to break down the protein in the affected area was completely appropriate.

The remaining odor that exists likely comes from two places:

1. There may be residual organic material in the carpet that has become a growth media for bacteria. This bacteria is notoriously difficult to remove, but has been successfully treated in similar situations with Microban Clean Carpet Sanitizer. If you use the product through a truck mount machine, add 6 ounces of concentrate to 1 gallon of water, then meter through the machine at a flow meter setting of 3 GPH. Follow label directions for use in portable equipment.


2. The more difficult challenge that likely exists here is infiltrated odor. This odor is likely coming from the neighboring store, as there is no vapor barrier in the wall between each building. Until any odor problems in the adjoining store are rectified, there will be some odor that could be detected in the clothing store.

An economical solution to this problem would be to place a few small Bad Odor Blocks near the area where the water originally came through the wall.

I recommend that you use the "Rain Forest" scent to best combat this odor of bacterial growth that is coming through the wall.

A better result, if your budget allows, would come with using a Vaportek Restorator unit and a Vaportek Cartridge. The natural oils used by Vaportek are completely safe to the employees and customers in the store, and the fragrance is not offensive. We have been successful in using the Vaportec product in the treatment of both smoke and decomposition odors in the past. This does not, of course, eliminate the need to clean the carpet with the Microban Clean Carpet Sanitizer.

If you need any further assistance, do not hesitate to call or email me.

Jim Pemberton

FAQs - Upholstery Advice

Q - Hey Jim,

I'm about to start messing around with upholstery, but before I go ruining my family's furniture I was hoping you can help me out a little.

Procyon, Hot Water and a Hair Brush will ruin which of these fabrics? Thanks in advance for the responses – (hopefully there are responses

• Natural Fabrics
  * Cotton, Cotton Blends, Leather, Linen, Silk, & Wools
  


• Synthetics
  * Acetate, Acrylic, Microfibre, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Rayon, & Vinyl
  

 - From a Potential New Diversifier

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A- Thanks for your interesting request!

I'm not comfortable offering advice on a branded product; those are answers better given by the manufacturer, but I hope these thoughts help:

1. Very few cleaning agents of any sort harm FIBERS (such as you listed).What they may do is cause dye instability (bleeding or fading) or contribute to cellulose browning in cotton, linen, and rayon. Highly buffered alkaline materials may harm wool and silk fibers themselves. Fibers that are weaker when wet, such as rayon and acetate, may not be damaged by a cleaning agent, but by brush or tool agitation.


2. Identifying specific fibers on upholstery can be challenging.
   Upholstery fabric manufacturers often blend two or more fibers together, and sometimes coat the back of the fabric with coatings to stabilize the fabric. This creates a condition where the conventional burn test charts become nearly useless.
   
   Since most problems with upholstery come from fabrics that contain fibers that are protein (wool/silk) or cellulose (cotton/linen/rayon), you can identify these by the fact that they crumble or smear in your finger tips after they are ignited. Any synthetic materials blended in will melt to a hard bead, but the protein/cellulose will still show up.


3. Always conduct a color bleeding test.


4. Be careful not to overwet the fabric during the cleaning process, and dry the material as quickly as possible afterward. Fabrics that dry quickly rarely have bleeding or browning problems.


5. You'll get better results on your natural (cellulose/protein) fibers with a neutral detergent and gentle agitation than with an alkaline, "detergent free" product like you are using. A few good upholstery preconditioning agents are: Prochem Fine Fabric Shampoo, Bridgepoint Fabric Shampoo, Masterblend Upholstery Shampoo.


6. Get to a training class as soon as you can. I've given you a few hints here, but going to a class where you can learn to do the tests and try out various methods and products will help you far more than my few thoughts here will.

Feel free to email or call me at 800-342-2297, ext 107 if I can help you further.
Jim Pemberton

FAQs - Encapuguard

Q - Jim,

Looking at the EncapuGuard directions. It says to simply spray it on after HWE to help control wicking and resoiling. Jim, that just sounds too easy to me!

Any first hand experience or actual use testimonials on this product?

I have been pondering carrying a buffer to encap all berbers, especially light colored ones. Of course space and one man lugging a heavy piece of equipment around in case he encounters a white berber are also considerations.

Berbers have been a more frequent nuisance of late, and encapping has been our "go to" for correction; but it would be nice to head these things off without the nuisance and embarrassment of a phone call and reservice.

Any thoughts?
John

A - Hi John

No testimonials come to mind, but there have been no complaints from anyone I've recommended it to.

EncapuGuard is ideal for the situations you describe. It also contains some organic acid to prevent yellowing, and it also acts as a soil retardant.

The product has been routinely used since it was introduced as a post spray on all olefin berbers, especially heavily soiled ones, and on stairs.

Some cleaners charge for "soil retardant" when they apply it, others, such as yourself, simply build it into the cost of cleaning those carpets.

Its great to have a product that not only prevents an annoying and costly re-service, but also enhances the performance of your customer's carpet afterward.

Response to Last Weeks FAQ

A comment on last weeks CleanTip:
From: Mark Violand
Subject: Re: Pembertons CleanTip - Customers Asking for Price Cuts?

"Some of my commercial & residential customers are starting to ask for price cuts". So, as you suggested in your CleanTip article about reducing the service offered is excellent advice.

However if the cleaner truly does follow the S100 Standard for cleaning and truly does dry soil removal prior to cleaning and suggests to his customer that to save money -- why don't you do the pre-vacuuming?

HAHAHAHAHAHA, have you seen the vacuums people use in their homes? I can guarantee you 50% of the vacuums in our customers home do not work, ask me how I know?

I know because I inspect them every time I go into a home inspecting a carpet for shedding or loss of texture.

People don't vacuum as they should, they are too busy. You know the rule of thumb, one time per week per occupant in the home (and that includes dogs and cats).

Either the filter is ready to blow, the brush is worn, the belt is broken or the vacuum is simply not suitable for deep, thorough dry soil removal like a good commercial vacuum that is meant to handle the heavy soil.
can do.

One idea that I would suggest (as I have done), is that the more furniture you have removed from the areas we are cleaning means the faster we can clean, and the less it will it cost you.

Mark Violand
IICRC Certified Senior Carpet Inspector
IICRC Approved Instructor
CFI Inspector/Technical Certification
ITS HardSurface Inspector (wood, laminate and resilient)
CTEF Ceramic Tile Inspector

FAQs - My Customers are Asking for Price Cuts, What Can I Do?

Q - Hey Jim,
Some of my commercial & residential customers are starting to ask for price cuts because of the current financial situation. I only factor in a modest profit margin to start with & really can't afford to cut my price.

What can I do?

A - Trust me, you are not the only one facing the same situation. With the recession, and budgets being tight, customers, including yourself, want to find a way to get a better deal.

In this current economic climate, many of us would find to find a way to knock off a few dollars, go the extra mile and hope this would translate into more work down the line.

But this would be a serious business mistake.

Here is something I learned from surviving years in business. If you are asked to reduce your price, you need to make a corresponding reduction in the value you provide.

It is that simple! Reducing service hours will translate into cost reduction. However, cost very carefully to make sure you are reducing cost areas that are labor intensive rather than product intensive.

Only the reduction of labor costs will allow realistic price reductions.

FAQs - Wicking After Spot Treatment

Q - Hi Jim

I treated my customer's carpet for urine, and even used the Spot Lifter, but she just called and said there was a big brown spot where I treated for the odor, and it wasn't there before.

Any ideas on how this might have happened?

Josh

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A - Hi Josh

Whether you use an injection syringe or the Spot Lifter Water Claw, both can leave enough moisture to cause wicking.

This brown spot might simply be wicked soil, or it may also include urine residues that were not completely flushed out.

You can avoid this problem by applying an absorbent spotting compound to the area immediately after you treat with either of the above mentioned methods. Both Bridgepoint's Stain Absorb and Masterblend's Absorbent Powder work well for this problem. Simply apply the product 1/8" deep and in an area that covers both the treated area and about 2" additional inches onto the dry carpet.

There is an added benefit to applying either of these products:

As they absorb any excess moisture, soil, or urine, they are also creating an odor barrier and odor absorbent process that controls any remaining odor while the enzymatic action of your deodorizing solution takes effect.

All you need to do when you are finished is then to advise your customer to wait for a day, then sweep up the powder with a broom and dustpan, and vacuum away any remaining powder that is still in the carpet pile.

To handle this specific problem, just flush again with your Spot Lifter Water Claw, and then apply the powder.

Jim

FAQs - Dry Cleaning Equipment

Jim,

We are looking to do on-site drapery cleaning and looking for a portable machine that will accommodate water and solvent (depending on the material) and a low moisture tool like the DryMaster. Can you offer any suggestions? Thanks a lot.

- Eric
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Hello Eric,

Thank you for your interest in our cleaning equipment. The machine that we offer for dry cleaning of draperies, as well as "wet" and "dry" cleaning of upholstery is the Kleenrite 204.

You can find information about this machine on our on line catalog at:
http://pembertonstore.com/portable-kleenrite-c-1_9_48.html

Regarding Your Question About The Drimaster Tool:
The Kleenrite machine (as well as other wet/dry cleaning machines) is designed to use water or solvent at low liquid pressure and volume. This design was the safest way to clean upholstery until the advent of "dry" tools, such as the Drimaster.

Unfortunately, the Drimaster tool requires more solution pressure and more vacuum to function properly, so while technically advanced in nature, it does not suit the Kleenrite system of cleaning upholstery.

Cleaners who want the advantages in safely and performance of the Drimaster Tool will purchase the Kleenrite Sphere, which does not dry clean, but can produce solution pressure up to 200 PSI, and has a large, 3 stage vacuum motor so that the machine best suits the Drimaster Tool.

You can find information on the Sphere on the same page with the Kleenrite 204.

Whichever machine you purchase from us, we are also prepared to train you on how to test and identify what you are cleaning, and also how to clean all fabrics and get results that you can be proud of.

- Jim Pemberton
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Portable with Solvent (continued)

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the info. I was given your info by Gary Funari at Unsmoke. He was in So. Cal last week teaching a IICRC class on smoke/fire/odors and he gave you high marks as a pro in our industry.

We are a textile restoration company that has traditionally removed drapes and cleaned them in-house. Drapes and upholstery only account for about 5% of our volume but i wanted to get a portable to do some of the work on-site. The info on the KleenRite machines is great. Thanks for sending me the link. Is there an advantage to "Recirculating Solution" feature offered by the 214Hx? What tools come with the unit, or what are the recommended low moisture tools compatible with these units?

Next big question...What about solutions and solvents? Given our niche do you have recommendations?

What is the shipping turn around on the unit and chemicals? We have jobs we would like to take to coming up. Thanks for your help.

- Eric
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Eric,

I believe the systems you've looked at will help you toward your goals. I met with Gary Funari at an instructors conference in Washington last weekend, and he told me that you would be contacting us. I'm sure you enjoyed what you learned from him.

He likely told you that we train those who invest in our cleaning systems; I'm not sure how your time demands and the distance will allow for that service, but it is here for you to take advantage of.

To your specific question:
The recirculating feature does not give you enough advantages to pay the extra money for the feature. It is especially difficult to switch your system from water based solutions to solvent based solutions and back again with ANY system. The recirculation system makes that task even more tedious.

Thus for someone who likely wants to use this system for dual purposes, I feel you are better to use the Kleenrite 204 than the Kleenrite 214.

Regarding tools:
While dry tools are rarely suitable for units such as the 204, I have found that you can use the following tool found at the same link as you observed the machines:

Hydry Deluxe - 4.5" Upholstery Cleaning Tool
This improved version of our former HyDry tool will revolutionize the way upholstery is cleaned! With the new internal valve...

There is a vacuum adjustment on the tool that will allow you to balance the vacuum and pressure and get some of the benefits that most want from such a tool. The Drimaster Tool on the same page would not be useful in this application.

We have two choices in drapery tools that are not on the site. I can get you more information on them if you like; they essential are "cheap, light, easy to use", versus "technically advanced, heavy, and difficult to use".

I can prepare a list of the cleaning products that you should need if you can give me a clarification on your goals.

1. Are you going to attempt to clean all soft contents with this system, from small area rugs, textile upholstery, as well as draperies and other window coverings?


2. Or are you simply buying this system to clean window coverings that might not be safe to clean in an in-plant process?

Finally, please understand that this system cannot clean soot and smoke damaged draperies as deeply as an in plant system. It does work very well for draperies that have been damaged by infiltrated smoke and dust, but does not remove "hot smoke" residues or oily soot well.

Turn around time can be a few weeks, depending on the manufacturer's inventory. You can receive products from us in one week from our location here in Pennsylvania.

Thank you again for your interest,
Jim Pemberton