Protector Failure -- Are You Guilty?

I have a strong belief that fabric protector is even more important for furniture than it is for carpet!

The nature of people's activities in their homes, along with the fact that a large percentage of upholstery is made from absorbent and difficult to clean natural fibers and blends make the need for the protection critical.

However, in your efforts to clean and protect fabrics, have you considered what you might do that keeps protector from working?

You should.

Here is an example.

This picture is of a fabric that was protected after cleaning. You should be able to clearly see how well the protector has worked.

Note, however, what happened in an area where a red dye stain remover was applied, and to the technicians point of view, rinsed out.

The protector was not able to properly bond this area that had a spotting agent residue.

Its arguable that the removal of an unsightly red dye is more important than fabric protection, but before applying a protector, think carefully about whether or not difficult to rinse residues might keep that product from performing.

FAQs - Does it Pay to Protect Polyester and Triexta?

There has been some discussion in our industry regarding or not polyester (PET) or triexta (PPT) require protector, and even if protector works on these fibers. While triexta is a new fiber, there is nothing in its make up to make us feel that the application of a fluorochemical protector, such as Scotchgard, Teflon, or Maxim would not help. These products protect against the primary soiling and staining problems that beset both triexta and polyester: Oily soils.

We have been able to conduct long term testing of polyester (PET) here at our training center. The polyester sample carpet was 20 years old, and obviously without any remaining factory protection. After cleaning, 3M Scotchgard (tm) and Bridgepoint Maxim Advanced were applied to opposite ends of the carpet, with the center left untreated.

The carpet was then put down in our repair shop, and rotated every day to make sure that the carpet soiled evenly. The carpet was also vacuumed every other day.

After 30 days, it was obvious that the two protected sides were resisting oily soil and spills, and that the untreated center was soiling more rapidly.

In 60 days, the carpet was thoroughly cleaned. Within another 30 days, the same degree of protection was still evident, as the treated areas continued to resist soil and spills, and the untreated areas did not.

As polyester (PET) becomes a larger percentage of the carpet you clean, you should feel free to apply fluorochemical protector to it. According to industry studies, it should remain on the carpet for about 12 months before it wears off.

FAQs - Sanitizing and Protecting Carpet

Q - Jim,

I have a customer who wants carpet sanitizer and carpet protectant.. how should I go about doing this?

Will the carpet sanitizer ruin the carpet protectant if its applied first?

Thanks,
Scott

A - Hi Scott,

Great question! Most combined applications of deodorizer and sanitizer (or any deodorizer) will end up with compatibility problems between the two products, and a double application of water based products, which can lead to slow drying and problems related to drying, such as microbial growth and/or wicking.

If you just need to deodorize and protect, add your deodorizer (if compatible) to your prespray. In the case of truly sanitizing a carpet, you'll need to use Microban Clean Carpet Sanitizer. You can either use it as a prespray followed by a clear water rinse if the carpet is heavily soiled, or you can run the product through your unit as the cleaner if the carpet is only moderately soiled.

As it is an EPA registered sanitizer, you should not use other presprays or boosters, as such products must never be used in a way contrary to label directions, and most other cleaners could interfere with the sanitizing ingredients. However, once the carpet is cleaned with this product (and it is a VERY good cleaner), you can then protect afterward with a good water based fluorochemical protector.

Jim

FAQs - Protection Treatment for Pure Woven Silk

Hi, Jim.

One of my customers, a decorator/decorator supply company,
asked me if I knew of any type of protective treatment that
can be applied to a pure woven silk wall covering, either after
or before installation. Do you have any info on this, and who
might have experience applying it? Thanks.

Jeff
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Hi Jeff

I have a great deal of confidence in Maxim Fine Fabric for
this application. This product is a pure, solvent based product that
was originally designed for the decorator industry before it was
introduced into the cleaning industry.

I will recommend that you apply a small amount (the size of a dime)
and dry it with a hair dryer. Twice in my career I've seen it darken a
fabric slightly.

Any solvent based product can do that.

Jim

FAQs - Maxim Advanced for Carpet & Upholstery

Q - What is the difference between Maxim Advanced for Carpet and Maxim Advanced for Fabric and Upholstery?

A - The differences between "Maxim Advanced" and "Maxim Advanced for Upholstery" are considerable. The name similarity is a marketing decision based on how popular the "Maxim Advanced" names has come to be. A related example would be how back in the 1970's, when Dupont wanted to compete with Scotchgard. Dupont called its first protector "Zepel". No one would buy it.

Then a smart marketing guy figured to use the same name for the product used on pots and pans: "Teflon". Its a different product applied in a different way, but it explains the benefit easily.

So Maxim Advanced for Upholstery has two major differences:

One, it contains a dye stabilizer. It won't keep everything from bleeding, but it will prevent bleeding in 99.999999999999% of the stuff you clean.

Two, its "elastic". Most protectors aren't, and don't need to be. But when sprayed on upholstery that gets sat on, it stretches when the fabric does. So its more appropriate for upholstery, and far more durable.