FAQs - Rust Colored Marks on Chenille

Q - Hey Lisa:

Here in the Orange County area I periodically come up against a problem with furniture covered using a "Chenille" fabric and my ability to clean it.

When the couch has "DOWN FEATHERS" filling in the cushions and, (depending on the age of the couch), during pre-inspection I see what appears to be orange or seemingly rust marks on the outside of the fabric.

I have been told by one of the local high end upholstery shops that it is the breaking down of the fire retardant (sprayed on the feathers), fabric protector and long term moisture in the air.

To date I explain but most normally walk away from those couches – Have you seen this before and do you have any suggestions on how to remove this discoloration?

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Lisa - Re: Chenille question

If I started out by sharing my opinion of chenille RUGS with you (which are sold at Pottery Barn, and shrink to about half their size when washed...) - we would have a long dissertation here. :)

As a fabric on upholstered furnishings, this type of tricky textiles needs advice from someone in that field. So I'm copying this to Jim Pemberton who is the best I know. (Jim and I are team teaching Aug. 6-7 in Vegas with a new program combining hands-on rug and fine fabric topics.)

JIM - any advice on this topic? Or explanation? Is this stenciling?

Please copy me... as I'd like to learn about it as well.

Lisa
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A – from Jim Pemberton

Lisa Wagner asked that I comment on your questions on rayon chenille upholstery and the discoloration that you're seeing.

I'd like to have a digital picture to look at, but I think based on your report to Lisa, that I can make these conclusions:

1 - I doubt that its flame retardant. Flame retardant, when exposed to excessive moisture, usually leaves a white stain, not a brown one.

2 - I doubt that its fabric protector. The only discoloration that I've seen from some over applications of fabric protector has been yellow, not rusty-brown.

3 - Whatever the cause, I also doubt that its from within the cushion, as you did mention that the discoloration is at the tips of the yarns.

This is what I have seen in rayon upholstery, as well as draperies, that can cause this type of discoloration.

1 - Oxidized spills, especially those that are sugary or oily. These can start as clear and turn brown over time. I do NOT think this is your problem, as the discoloration should look like a spill.

2 - Reaction to cleaning agent residues. This isn't like the browning you see on unprocessed cotton, but the result is the same. You haven't indicated that you cleaned it, though, so I'm assuming its not that.

3 - Sizing: Water marks on rayon turn rusty brown when sizing is present. I doubt its that only because its usually seen as a ring, and I'm not convinced there would be a great deal of sizing used on chenille. However, based on the moisture you say might be present in the environment, it is a possibility.

4 - Oxidation from exposure to light and pollutants. This is what I believe to be the cause. You can see this sort of problem on draperies that are exposed to direct sunlight, humidity, and fumes.

Correcting the problem is problematic, as rayon is sensitive to both moisture and bleaches, as well as the fact that repeated clean and rinse processing will distort the hand of the fabric.

If you wish to try, I would use a neutral detergent and an mild, non chlorine bleach additive that contains sodium percarbonate. You can apply the solution in a mist, GENTLY agitate with a soft horsehair brush in one direction; allow about 20 minutes of dwell time, then extract with an acidic rinse agent, followed by fast drying.

I would hesitate to do this on location, especially as you mentioned the humid environment. Take this to a location where you can control the humidity and closely monitor your results.

Before you go to this trouble, you might consider testing a small area with fresh 3% hydrogen peroxide. If that doesn't work, the above formula likely will not.

Resist trying stronger concentrations of hydrogen peroxide, as these might weaken the fabric.

Let me know what comes of any tests or remediation processes that you attempt.

Best regards,
Jim Pemberton

Pets don't only contaminate carpet! Small pets often have "accidents" (some are "on purposes") on your customers' furniture. The processes used to treat furniture for animal odor are much like the processes that you use on carpet.

If cleaning and a surface application of deodorizer does not suffice, you can inject deodorizer into cushions. To distribute this deodorant throughout the cushion foam, put the cushion in a plastic bag and use your vacuum hose and extractor to draw the air out of the cushion in side of the bag. This will more evenly distribute the deodorizer that you've injected.

Note: Be sure to clean the cushion again afterward, as you very likely see watermarks appear on the cushion as injected deodorizer wicks to the surface.

If this measure is not sufficient, consider removing the cushion foam and using a sub surface extraction tool, such as the Water Claw Spot Lifter or the Flash Extractor.

In cases of extreme contamination, cushion foam might be better discarded and replaced.

Do not inject deodorizer into the body of a sofa or chair without a specific written release. Injecting deodorizing materials into the structure of a chair or sofa may cause materials or markers used beneath the fabric to bleed through and leave permanent stains.

Protector Failure -- Are You Guilty?

I have a strong belief that fabric protector is even more important for furniture than it is for carpet!

The nature of people's activities in their homes, along with the fact that a large percentage of upholstery is made from absorbent and difficult to clean natural fibers and blends make the need for the protection critical.

However, in your efforts to clean and protect fabrics, have you considered what you might do that keeps protector from working?

You should.

Here is an example.

This picture is of a fabric that was protected after cleaning. You should be able to clearly see how well the protector has worked.

Note, however, what happened in an area where a red dye stain remover was applied, and to the technicians point of view, rinsed out.

The protector was not able to properly bond this area that had a spotting agent residue.

Its arguable that the removal of an unsightly red dye is more important than fabric protection, but before applying a protector, think carefully about whether or not difficult to rinse residues might keep that product from performing.

FAQs - Cotton Denim-Like Fabric

Q – Hi Jim,

A customer has a sectional comprised of a light colored denim fabric. There are numerous baby formula spots on multiple panels.

I mentioned to the customer that there is a good likelihood that the spots will not be removable, but they would like me to try. I will burn test it, but, assuming it is cotton, I was thinking of trying either cool protein spotter (Zoop, or possibly Avenge or Perky spotter), letting it dwell for a few minutes, rinsing with Clean Rinse in my rinse solution, then force-drying with a blower.

What are your thoughts on this? I would appreciate any advice you would be willing to give.

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A – From Jim . . .

Much of the outcome will depend on whether the fabric had a protector on it, how long the spots have been on the material, and if they tried anything first.

What color is "light color"? Dark denim, like jeans, loses color easily, and spotting often causes color loss. To be on the safe side, I'd follow this procedure:

• Precondition the entire fabric with Avenge Heavy Duty Prespray. It has a high enough pH to break protein bonds in most cases, especially if the furniture was protected.
• DO NOT apply it only in spots.
• Allow ten minutes of dwell time, and then extract with your Clean Rinse. You will take out some, if not all, of the spots. If any do remain, you can try the Zoop Enzyme Spotter, as it is very mild and unlikely to cause color loss. Also, if you apply it immediately after you rinse the fabric, the presence of moisture will prevent water marks.
• You can accelerate the Zoop by lightly steaming it with a steamer or iron, but hold the steam back and do not let the iron touch the fabric.
• Rinse again with the Clean Rinse and see what you have.

If any spots remain, you should get some sort of release. Once you are clear of liability, Protein Stain Spotter is one of the best baby formula spotters I've ever used, but it can pull color from natural fiber fabrics, so apply on a small amount at a time, and rinse it as quickly as possible.

If you have any before and after pictures, please send them!

Jim

Research Reveals Key Reason Why Carpet Cleaners Don't Clean Upholstery

"I've been engaged in an ongoing study about why cleaners don't make enough money cleaning upholstery to feel that its worthwhile to position themselves as an upholstery cleaning specialist.

Much of this attitude appears to come from the fact that, unlike carpet, its difficult to predict how long it will take to clean upholstery because of the wide variety of fibers used in the constructions, as well as the differences of durability of those constructions themselves.

I recently did a study on a chair made from a blend of rayon and polyester fibers, that was both heavily soiled and stained. The techniques used initially on this chair to clean it improved the appearance over the way it looked before professional cleaning, but the process took longer than most cleaners could afford to take on location, and results were still less than stellar.

Check my blog on Monday afternoon to see pictures of this chair, along with the improvement conventional on location techniques were able to give, and what processes were finally used to restore the chair to an almost “like new” condition.

Pet Odor Removal: The Right Tools Aren’t Always Enough!

The most important tools to enter our industry have been “sub surface extraction tools”, such as the Water Claw and Flash Extractor. With proper use of these tools, heavy spills that create wicking, as well as odor causing urine contamination, can often be removed from carpet and carpet cushion without the need to disengage the carpet.

Is It Magic?
Unfortunately, as with most new tools, many cleaners feel the tool alone is the answer. I recently received a question about urine odor treatment where the cleaner treated the urine odor with a high quality deodorizer, but not a product designed to remove urine contamination.

Even though he used the tool properly, the lack of using the right product resulted in failure to remove the odor.

When it makes sense to remove deep urine contamination by using the advantages of subsurface extraction, the product that you use is critical.

Remember These Facts:

• A conventional deodorizer works on odor, but does not remove the source.
• An enzyme deodorizer may remove the source, but requires hours if not days to work.
• The best product to use is one that using oxidation, such as Pet Zone or Occelerate.
  
  • These products work much like the non chlorine oxidizing boosters you might be using to boost carpet or upholstery pre-sprays, but also have an additive that makes them work MUCH quicker!

When mixing an oxidizing deodorizer, mix it in a watering can or open bucket, as the rapid oxygen release may burst your sprayer!

Pour the product liberally on the affected area, then extract with the subsurface extraction tool (Spot Lifter or Flash Extractor).

You will see yellow foam, then just foam, and after another application or two, you can use water and rinse till clear.

NOTE: DO NOT use this method when you have wood subfloor without pulling back the carpet and pad and placing plastic underneath. If you are working over concrete, no protection is necessary.

FYI - Hidden in the Ductwork

FYI - Hey Jim . . .

I just cleaned the ducts in a house I was preparing for a new tenant - and was I ever shocked! OH MY! I had cleaned the ducts last year as a practice job, so I had no idea I would find anything amiss.

However, after the practice job last year, I let a contractor into the house to do some remodeling. I felt it would make the house a better rental unit. But, what a mess he left hidden in the ductwork!

I guess registers make good dust pans when nobody is looking! It was a good training for my new employee. He had to make 3 passes in one duct!

The insulation pieces were flying around in the clear view vac box like crazy. Fun to watch, but certainly made me angry.

(People enjoy seeing the junk coming out of their ducts. Makes them feel the money is well spent, but this didn't make me too happy.)

Any how, he removed nails, saw dust, and even wood chunks. The filters in the system were plugged solid! Even a couple dead mice. Must have gone in there after some food they swept in there.

Dead though....hmm. Contaminated ducts must not be good for mice either!

FAQs - Acrylic/Modacrylic Fibers

Q - Hey Jim,
I got a couple of Acrylic/Modacrylic area rugs in yesterday. White back ground with colored polka dots.
Should I have any concerns?

A - from Jim P
Good question!

In my limited experience with acrylic rugs, I find some to be cheaply made, so do a thorough inspection to look for any weakness or preexisting damage. The PRC (China will always be "Red China" to me) makes cheap stuff, including rugs. I have had some non colorfast acrylic rugs that were manufactured in the PRC, so test the colors carefully, even though we usually think of thermoplastic synthetics as being colorfast.

You'll also find that if there is any wear or distortion, that you cannot readily fix it with grooming or steaming like you often can with wool or even silk.

Send me some pictures, front and back!
Jim

Q - comment from reader

Thanks Jim,

The rugs do not appear to be anything too special. Typical tufted rugs, just wondering about the modacrylic fiber characteristics.

Thanks again

A - from Jim P
OK, that being said, let me know a little more, if you can.
Tufted rugs can have their challenges, especially if cheaply made. They likely have very low value.
Jim

Q – comment from reader

Jim,

Here is what I observe . . .

As I said, the rugs are from China. There are two identical rugs. One for some reason is darker/dirtier looking. After cleaning, pet spots are almost gone, 99%, but the darker rug still looks darker. Neither was super soiled, but they just don't look any better except in the pet spotted areas.

On another note, I had a badly abused wool rug with numerous dye looking colored spots or medicine spots that didn't clean. I went back over with Stain Zone (I know, I know!) lightly. All responded beyond my expectations with no (visible) bad results.

Interesting how our industry has matured over the years to come up with so many specialty products to so easily fix things that were next to impossible except for the real spotting geniuses.

A - from Jim P

Hi again, and thanks for the updates.

You'll see I've now copied your emails to my mentor in "all things area rug related", Lisa Wagner. I think she'll have some insights regarding your Chinese acrylic rugs, though my guess is that she doesn't see them as having a very high value, and therefore that any further restoration likely exceeds the value of the rug.

But she never ceases to surprise me with her creativity and standards of excellence, so we'll see what she says.

Likewise using Stain Zone (stabilized 9% Hydrogen Peroxide Lisa, if you weren't sure) on wool.

Not a great idea, but if you can do it safely and not take on excessive liability, why not? My father was using peroxide back in the 60's, but since from the 60's to the late 80's most carpets were dark, most urine stains were bleach stains. In the last 20 years carpets are light, and the early stages of urine contamination are visible, and can be treated before dye damage occurs.

Jim

A-2 – comment from guest expert
From: Lisa Wagner
Subject: Re: Acrylic/Modacrylic

Jim is right that acrylic is really the bottom of the food chain... it's like trying to clean a styrofoam cup to make it all uniformly "white" again - the question "why bother?" comes up from all directions.

It is a very weak fiber - not as horrible as fake silk (rayon) but fake wool (acrylic) still has those concerns about too much agitation, and weakening from just about every corrective stain remover you could use.

With hydrogen peroxide on wool... yes you can improve some stains with that. Most rug plants do use this on certain stubborn stains - within reason, because it will create deterioration of the wool fibers as a result, so these areas will be weaker over time, and begin reflecting light differently, so as the rug ages, those areas you worked on will become more apparent. So it is a short term "win" with a long term consequence.

But - if the rug is not high value (i.e. an investment piece), from India or China, then this might not matter much. Actually, if it has urine stains on it, the rug even if valuable is no longer valuable... so it may be a moot point.

In these scenarios, I write on the invoice - "significant pet urine damage has permanently devalued the rug - we will attempt to lessen this damage with some corrective measures but will not be able to reverse what has been done by the pets."

Something along those lines. She needs to know her rug is less valuable - so if any work you do seems incomplete, or a different version of a problem, that she cannot come back and say YOU devalued her rug. You can damage a damaged rug, that's what I say.

So, protect yourself if you do any more work. I usually try one area, let them tell me if they want more done - give them the cost - and let them know that bleach/peroxide/stripping agents/whatever WILL damage the fibers. I make it their educated call on what they want done.

Hope that helps... please do send the acrylic photos. I hope your clients don't think they bought a wool rug, -- that would be sad.

Lisa

Understanding Fiber Families Key to Getting Better Results in Upholstery Cleaning

Cleaners who use a "one size fits all" approach to choosing upholstery cleaning products and procedures usually end up existing in a world where they skirt safety occasionally, and fall short on the best possible cleaning results most of the time.

This happens because of the fact that you can't clean "plants and hair" (cotton/linen/rayon and wool) like you do plastic (olefin, polyester, nylon, and acrylic).

The cleaning products and processes that clean one type well do not readily clean the other type well, regardless of safety issues.

Think of it this way: Natural fiber upholstery (plants and hair) absorbs water readily, and is usually stained by common spills and body discharges; it’s also sensitive to over-wetting.

Synthetic fibers (plastics) resist water based spills, but draw in oily soils and spills, whether from petroleum, vegetable, as well as animal oils or fats.

In our upcoming webinar on June 22, you'll learn which products and procedures best remove water based stains from natural fiber upholstery, and which ones help to remove oily soils from synthetic fibers.

I plan to share techniques that work and I promise that you will learn
“How to Get Dirty Upholstery Clean, and Get It Done Quickly”.

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Join Jim Pemberton the evening of June 22nd for a 60 minute webinar co-sponsored by Bridgepoint and Mikeysboard where Jim will spell out the simple steps you can take and products you can use to clean upholstery both safely AND effectively.
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Don’t miss this one! We will provide more details in upcoming issues of Pembertons CleanTip

May 28th FREE FRIDAY Tile & Grout Cleaning
June 25th FREE FRIDAY Successful Pet Urine Decontamination,
Deodorization, and Stain Removal.
July 16th BOOKED SOLID Seminar by Jeff Cross

Do You Have What it Takes to be an Upholstery Cleaning Specialist?

In January of 2007 I wrote an article for Cleanfax regarding the lack of true upholstery cleaning specialists in most market areas.

I was prompted to write it because of the number of furniture retailers who approached me for training so that they could handle skilled upholstery spotting, stain removal, and cleaning for their clients.

I want to be sure you understand this:
None of them have opened cleaning divisions as a profit center! Instead they had their delivery and repair staff trained and equipped to clean fabrics that their customers could not have taken care of anywhere else in their community.

Cleanfax recently reissued this article and sent it out over the internet. What surprised me was the amount of inquiries I received about how to be such a specialist in just one day after it hit!

As I pondered the questions that I have been asked, and reflected on what I’ve learned in the three years since I wrote that article, I’ve come to a conclusion that might make some of you uncomfortable:

You may NOT be able to be an upholstery cleaning specialist!

I do believe that, with one of the new “dry tools”, some specialty upholstery cleaning products, and a couple of days of training, that you can clean most fabrics safely (and at a profit).

But I am no longer convinced that simply working with such tools, products, and with the limited industry training available, that you can clean most fabrics EFFECTIVELY enough to be considered an “Expert” in your marketplace!

I also feel less convinced that every cleaner is willing to commit the resources of time and finance to take the cleaning of upholstery to that next level, and to effectively market the fact that they can and will offer this specialized service to their marketplace.

If YOU wish to make the commitment to go beyond a tool, a few products, and a few days of training and become the upholstery care specialist in your market place, stay in touch with us at Pembertons. We will be offering ways to help you make that next step very soon.