FAQs - Encapuguard

Q - Jim,

Looking at the EncapuGuard directions. It says to simply spray it on after HWE to help control wicking and resoiling. Jim, that just sounds too easy to me!

Any first hand experience or actual use testimonials on this product?

I have been pondering carrying a buffer to encap all berbers, especially light colored ones. Of course space and one man lugging a heavy piece of equipment around in case he encounters a white berber are also considerations.

Berbers have been a more frequent nuisance of late, and encapping has been our "go to" for correction; but it would be nice to head these things off without the nuisance and embarrassment of a phone call and reservice.

Any thoughts?
John

A - Hi John

No testimonials come to mind, but there have been no complaints from anyone I've recommended it to.

EncapuGuard is ideal for the situations you describe. It also contains some organic acid to prevent yellowing, and it also acts as a soil retardant.

The product has been routinely used since it was introduced as a post spray on all olefin berbers, especially heavily soiled ones, and on stairs.

Some cleaners charge for "soil retardant" when they apply it, others, such as yourself, simply build it into the cost of cleaning those carpets.

Its great to have a product that not only prevents an annoying and costly re-service, but also enhances the performance of your customer's carpet afterward.

Response to Last Weeks FAQ

A comment on last weeks CleanTip:
From: Mark Violand
Subject: Re: Pembertons CleanTip - Customers Asking for Price Cuts?

"Some of my commercial & residential customers are starting to ask for price cuts". So, as you suggested in your CleanTip article about reducing the service offered is excellent advice.

However if the cleaner truly does follow the S100 Standard for cleaning and truly does dry soil removal prior to cleaning and suggests to his customer that to save money -- why don't you do the pre-vacuuming?

HAHAHAHAHAHA, have you seen the vacuums people use in their homes? I can guarantee you 50% of the vacuums in our customers home do not work, ask me how I know?

I know because I inspect them every time I go into a home inspecting a carpet for shedding or loss of texture.

People don't vacuum as they should, they are too busy. You know the rule of thumb, one time per week per occupant in the home (and that includes dogs and cats).

Either the filter is ready to blow, the brush is worn, the belt is broken or the vacuum is simply not suitable for deep, thorough dry soil removal like a good commercial vacuum that is meant to handle the heavy soil.
can do.

One idea that I would suggest (as I have done), is that the more furniture you have removed from the areas we are cleaning means the faster we can clean, and the less it will it cost you.

Mark Violand
IICRC Certified Senior Carpet Inspector
IICRC Approved Instructor
CFI Inspector/Technical Certification
ITS HardSurface Inspector (wood, laminate and resilient)
CTEF Ceramic Tile Inspector

FAQs - My Customers are Asking for Price Cuts, What Can I Do?

Q - Hey Jim,
Some of my commercial & residential customers are starting to ask for price cuts because of the current financial situation. I only factor in a modest profit margin to start with & really can't afford to cut my price.

What can I do?

A - Trust me, you are not the only one facing the same situation. With the recession, and budgets being tight, customers, including yourself, want to find a way to get a better deal.

In this current economic climate, many of us would find to find a way to knock off a few dollars, go the extra mile and hope this would translate into more work down the line.

But this would be a serious business mistake.

Here is something I learned from surviving years in business. If you are asked to reduce your price, you need to make a corresponding reduction in the value you provide.

It is that simple! Reducing service hours will translate into cost reduction. However, cost very carefully to make sure you are reducing cost areas that are labor intensive rather than product intensive.

Only the reduction of labor costs will allow realistic price reductions.

FAQs - Wicking After Spot Treatment

Q - Hi Jim

I treated my customer's carpet for urine, and even used the Spot Lifter, but she just called and said there was a big brown spot where I treated for the odor, and it wasn't there before.

Any ideas on how this might have happened?

Josh

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A - Hi Josh

Whether you use an injection syringe or the Spot Lifter Water Claw, both can leave enough moisture to cause wicking.

This brown spot might simply be wicked soil, or it may also include urine residues that were not completely flushed out.

You can avoid this problem by applying an absorbent spotting compound to the area immediately after you treat with either of the above mentioned methods. Both Bridgepoint's Stain Absorb and Masterblend's Absorbent Powder work well for this problem. Simply apply the product 1/8" deep and in an area that covers both the treated area and about 2" additional inches onto the dry carpet.

There is an added benefit to applying either of these products:

As they absorb any excess moisture, soil, or urine, they are also creating an odor barrier and odor absorbent process that controls any remaining odor while the enzymatic action of your deodorizing solution takes effect.

All you need to do when you are finished is then to advise your customer to wait for a day, then sweep up the powder with a broom and dustpan, and vacuum away any remaining powder that is still in the carpet pile.

To handle this specific problem, just flush again with your Spot Lifter Water Claw, and then apply the powder.

Jim

FAQs - Dry Cleaning Equipment

Jim,

We are looking to do on-site drapery cleaning and looking for a portable machine that will accommodate water and solvent (depending on the material) and a low moisture tool like the DryMaster. Can you offer any suggestions? Thanks a lot.

- Eric
--------------
Hello Eric,

Thank you for your interest in our cleaning equipment. The machine that we offer for dry cleaning of draperies, as well as "wet" and "dry" cleaning of upholstery is the Kleenrite 204.

You can find information about this machine on our on line catalog at:
http://pembertonstore.com/portable-kleenrite-c-1_9_48.html

Regarding Your Question About The Drimaster Tool:
The Kleenrite machine (as well as other wet/dry cleaning machines) is designed to use water or solvent at low liquid pressure and volume. This design was the safest way to clean upholstery until the advent of "dry" tools, such as the Drimaster.

Unfortunately, the Drimaster tool requires more solution pressure and more vacuum to function properly, so while technically advanced in nature, it does not suit the Kleenrite system of cleaning upholstery.

Cleaners who want the advantages in safely and performance of the Drimaster Tool will purchase the Kleenrite Sphere, which does not dry clean, but can produce solution pressure up to 200 PSI, and has a large, 3 stage vacuum motor so that the machine best suits the Drimaster Tool.

You can find information on the Sphere on the same page with the Kleenrite 204.

Whichever machine you purchase from us, we are also prepared to train you on how to test and identify what you are cleaning, and also how to clean all fabrics and get results that you can be proud of.

- Jim Pemberton
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Portable with Solvent (continued)

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the info. I was given your info by Gary Funari at Unsmoke. He was in So. Cal last week teaching a IICRC class on smoke/fire/odors and he gave you high marks as a pro in our industry.

We are a textile restoration company that has traditionally removed drapes and cleaned them in-house. Drapes and upholstery only account for about 5% of our volume but i wanted to get a portable to do some of the work on-site. The info on the KleenRite machines is great. Thanks for sending me the link. Is there an advantage to "Recirculating Solution" feature offered by the 214Hx? What tools come with the unit, or what are the recommended low moisture tools compatible with these units?

Next big question...What about solutions and solvents? Given our niche do you have recommendations?

What is the shipping turn around on the unit and chemicals? We have jobs we would like to take to coming up. Thanks for your help.

- Eric
------------
Eric,

I believe the systems you've looked at will help you toward your goals. I met with Gary Funari at an instructors conference in Washington last weekend, and he told me that you would be contacting us. I'm sure you enjoyed what you learned from him.

He likely told you that we train those who invest in our cleaning systems; I'm not sure how your time demands and the distance will allow for that service, but it is here for you to take advantage of.

To your specific question:
The recirculating feature does not give you enough advantages to pay the extra money for the feature. It is especially difficult to switch your system from water based solutions to solvent based solutions and back again with ANY system. The recirculation system makes that task even more tedious.

Thus for someone who likely wants to use this system for dual purposes, I feel you are better to use the Kleenrite 204 than the Kleenrite 214.

Regarding tools:
While dry tools are rarely suitable for units such as the 204, I have found that you can use the following tool found at the same link as you observed the machines:

Hydry Deluxe - 4.5" Upholstery Cleaning Tool
This improved version of our former HyDry tool will revolutionize the way upholstery is cleaned! With the new internal valve...

There is a vacuum adjustment on the tool that will allow you to balance the vacuum and pressure and get some of the benefits that most want from such a tool. The Drimaster Tool on the same page would not be useful in this application.

We have two choices in drapery tools that are not on the site. I can get you more information on them if you like; they essential are "cheap, light, easy to use", versus "technically advanced, heavy, and difficult to use".

I can prepare a list of the cleaning products that you should need if you can give me a clarification on your goals.

1. Are you going to attempt to clean all soft contents with this system, from small area rugs, textile upholstery, as well as draperies and other window coverings?


2. Or are you simply buying this system to clean window coverings that might not be safe to clean in an in-plant process?

Finally, please understand that this system cannot clean soot and smoke damaged draperies as deeply as an in plant system. It does work very well for draperies that have been damaged by infiltrated smoke and dust, but does not remove "hot smoke" residues or oily soot well.

Turn around time can be a few weeks, depending on the manufacturer's inventory. You can receive products from us in one week from our location here in Pennsylvania.

Thank you again for your interest,
Jim Pemberton

FAQs - Sanitizing and Protecting Carpet

Q - Jim,

I have a customer who wants carpet sanitizer and carpet protectant.. how should I go about doing this?

Will the carpet sanitizer ruin the carpet protectant if its applied first?

Thanks,
Scott

A - Hi Scott,

Great question! Most combined applications of deodorizer and sanitizer (or any deodorizer) will end up with compatibility problems between the two products, and a double application of water based products, which can lead to slow drying and problems related to drying, such as microbial growth and/or wicking.

If you just need to deodorize and protect, add your deodorizer (if compatible) to your prespray. In the case of truly sanitizing a carpet, you'll need to use Microban Clean Carpet Sanitizer. You can either use it as a prespray followed by a clear water rinse if the carpet is heavily soiled, or you can run the product through your unit as the cleaner if the carpet is only moderately soiled.

As it is an EPA registered sanitizer, you should not use other presprays or boosters, as such products must never be used in a way contrary to label directions, and most other cleaners could interfere with the sanitizing ingredients. However, once the carpet is cleaned with this product (and it is a VERY good cleaner), you can then protect afterward with a good water based fluorochemical protector.

Jim

FAQs - Protection Treatment for Pure Woven Silk

Hi, Jim.

One of my customers, a decorator/decorator supply company,
asked me if I knew of any type of protective treatment that
can be applied to a pure woven silk wall covering, either after
or before installation. Do you have any info on this, and who
might have experience applying it? Thanks.

Jeff
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Jeff

I have a great deal of confidence in Maxim Fine Fabric for
this application. This product is a pure, solvent based product that
was originally designed for the decorator industry before it was
introduced into the cleaning industry.

I will recommend that you apply a small amount (the size of a dime)
and dry it with a hair dryer. Twice in my career I've seen it darken a
fabric slightly.

Any solvent based product can do that.

Jim

FAQs - Removing Blood from Denim Sofa

Q - Greetings, Jim.

Wonder if you would be kind enough to share your insight on this:

I have an appointment this Wednesday to attempt to clean a dime-sized blood stain on the seat cushion of a sofa.

I haven't seen the fabric yet, but the customer states that it is tan colored cotton denim. The warranty company sent her a bottle of Crypton to try, but it didn't remove the stain.

I took a look at the MSDS for Crypton, but the specific ingredients are considered trade secrets and weren't listed.

I was thinking of trying Zoop, and lowering the pH with Fab Set afterward. I'm also considering hydrogen peroxide (3%) after testing in a hidden area.

I'm not too optimistic due to the Crypton and the time lapsed. Do you know what type of agent Crypton is? Also, any suggestions on an approach?

On another note, my colleague told me he was pretty excited with the course – he definitely found it worth the time and expense to travel from NJ.

--------------------------------------
A - Hi Jeff

Thank you for passing along that Barry's experience was positive, and for referring him to us.

I worry about denim because of its tendency to fade when exposed to ANY cleaner, yet alone peroxide.

Are you authorized to rinse the fabric from seam to seam?

If so, you should rinse the fabric with clear, cool water first to remove the "Crypton". The enzyme spotter Zoop is relatively neutral, so I'd just warm it up by putting the bottle in a bucket of hot water (since its not to be diluted).

Apply the warmed product to a clean white cloth, and then blot both the blood and the surrounding area to prevent an obvious "clean mark" or fading of the denim.

(Get a waiver from the fabric manufacturer too, by the way)

Give the Zoop half an hour to work, then rinse again with cool, clear water. If that removes the spot, use a hair dryer on a cool setting.

If the blood remains, get a full release before applying 3% peroxide. Even mild 3% peroxide can lighten such a stain. Allow several minutes for the peroxide to work, then rinse the fabric again with clear water. Dry quickly again.

High pH protein spotters, such as Prochem or Bridgepoint Protein Spotter may work, but are usually between 10-11 on the pH scale, and almost always will pull color from natural fiber fabrics. Be VERY wary of such products and never use them without extensive pretesting and a release signed whatever your test results show.

I hope this helped.

Jim

How Do Your Stats Look?

Hi Jim,

I share the following in case it would help your CLEAN TIP, blog, or a workshop. It shows; where my business came from in 2008, that I must do the job right, and what I need to "sell" when at the job.

71% were repeat clients
26% from referrals
3% new clients from the phonebook
Average per customer $306.85 (minimum service charge $150, .40 sf for carpet clng)

52% carpet cleaning
11% upholstery clng
11% carpet repair
11% odor control
11% floor care
4% color repair

I did not use a marketing program last year (and still had a decent year) but plan to go back to the postcards as these have always paid off with one job, (less than $100 to make, print, and stamp my own) AND I will not be in the phonebook this year and from now on. As recent CLEAN TIPS have used the word "trust", in our current world of fruits & nuts, "I" don't know if I can trust most of the strangers calling from the phonebook. Besides, my muscle and bones are getting older and I feel that my clientele is well established. I can survive without the 3% by using the postcards again constantly putting my name in front of my client's face that will remind them to have me and/or refer me.

This decision to discontinue the phonebook is partly from the suggestion made by YOU to keep such statistics as above, the recent CLEAN TIPS, and the YOU TUBE video you sent (thanks). I know that it is the right thing to do.

AGAIN I thank you for your commitment to the industry and helping the "rookies" to make it in this business.

See ya soon,
Ken
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Hi Ken

Thank you so much for the statistics. They parallel the experiences that other cleaners like you have shared with me over the past year.

Of course, there are not a lot of cleaners like you, so it has been a unique minority of owner operators who have built their businesses "a mile deep an inch wide", rather than the majority who have built their businesses a "mile wide and an inch deep".

Those latter types have not done as well as "your type" has.

Jim

FAQs - Flea Control

Q - Jim

Hey Jim, hope you are having a relaxing weekend! Slowly getting the old customers back little by little. (I've had a few calling lately, that I haven't seen in over 10 years) Still plugging away at the marketing, seems what use to work a few years ago, just doesn't pull results like it use too...I think that's always been my biggest struggle is the marketing.

Well enough rambling on, what can you suggest to me for Fleas? One of my brothers long time cats, fell ill...and I think while it was resting outside, a few hopped on her.

Doesn't seem to be to severe of a case yet, but there were 4 or 5 noticeable on the cream living room carpet. Sterifab will work won't it? Only thing I didn't like about that was the alcohol fumes...Maybe you have some other suggestions? The Cat is being treated in the meantime.

Thanks for any suggestions and for the help over the years!

A - Hi Tim

I'm glad your business is recovering. Marketing has changed though; are you a member of eCleanAdvisor and do you get our weekly Clean Tip?

Sterifab will kill fleas but any eggs that have been layed will not be effected; their life cycle is such that spraying again in two weeks will usually do the trick. That said, its a job best left for professional exterminators if the situation worsens.